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as has been said i would try to contact the original builders , failing that get a plumber in to sort it out , without knowing the entire set up it would be foolish of us to advise you to mess with something that is (probably)basically a safety device that yes should return into the soil pipe...

the top picture makes me think its a blow off possibly from an unvented cylinder that hasnt been returned into the soil pipe which is open hence the bad smell , looks a fairly new build judging by the studwork , possibly an apartment ? if this is the case then that copper pipe would need...

dont know the make but yes any threaded outside tap will screw into that backplate ... might want to add a bit of ptfe tape aswell

I'm not sure you realise how adhesive silicone is

Yes it will help unless you really want to pay to heat your roof

What system was in place before the combi ? ive seen hidden zone valves under floors do this and the system would still fill down the return

thats nice for you

i've not long worked on a social housing project to renew bathrooms , and an asbestos company had to remove those black rubber cisterns as apparently they contained a not insignificant amount of asbestos ,

could be a pressure problem , might want to try an anti syphon trap , it's just like a normal trap but with a small air valve on it

the majority of toilets outlets are all the same ,around a 7" center youll have to check with the manufacturer as to the dimensions of the wall hung ones etc etc , the problem with saniflow is the noise and when they break down they are the most disgusting thing ever created to try and repair :(

you may get away with 1" fall over 2 meters though ideally it would be no less than about 40mm , the only other options that i can think of are to seat your toilet on a raised plinth which you can buy from any plumbers merchants ,or install a saniflow system to reduce the diameter of your pipe...

hi its a glowworm swiftflow 80 so its a few years old now , not sure why it began passing as it seems to run ok

hi all , ive got a prv passing ,so i think ok i,ll just change it ,however when you turn the hot tap on the rate of water from the blow off increases and becomes warm , any ideas ? thx

if the boiler is working fine , then ideal are not going to be interested to be quite honest. you're losing pressure across the gas carcass , probably not a leak or they would of picked it up , it could be due to a number of reasons , poor pipe sizing etc etc , you need to get an rgi in to...

the usual way is the nearest layby at midnight

the picture on the right shows your filler loop which is used to repressure the heating side of your boiler

if its a combi you could isolate an upstairs rad drain it and add it into that , if its a gravity fed system just drain enough to empty the f+e tank pour it into that and refill it again though obviously you'll have to drain the system to remove it :D and as lightning said use x800

what boiler do you have in now , how many rads , bedrooms bathroome etc stick some sludge remover in it for a while before you start thinking of spending that sort of cash , seems to me they priced up aa mansion :)

hi , ive just had an ideal icos fitted and the heating and hot water are working ok , however in the middle of the night it will start banging even when the programmer is set to off on both heating and hot water , the display allways shows "c" which says in the book that CH is being supplied and...

exactly why do you not have access to the main stoptap in the road ?