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As above. Do you have 240v on the grey wire too?

The one in jj4091s link was closer than mine...

Something like this? https://pipedreamfittings.com/product/table-d-slip-on-flange-316l-stainless-steel-2/?attribute_pa_size=12&utm_source=Google+Shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=xm01&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwrvyxBhAbEiwAEg_KgjUS6k4UKmRMQ0BImOfg_9S1tfPc-SVx6N3YoMRTsyf-csSNEHXV8RoCoGwQAvD_BwE

You need to check the wiring. The existing stat appears to be connected incorrectly, and or is using the earth wire as a switched live which is not permitted, the manual also says not to use terminal 2. If you only have 2 wires and earth, the HRT2 and HRT3 models are not suitable as they require...

That modification would certainly increase the life of the synchron motor as well as save some electric.

The valve will stay in its last position when the programmer/stat is switched off however if both HW and CH are running and the valve is in the mid position and shut off together the valve will spring return to HW only. If only the CH is running the valve will stay powered and remain in the CH...

Those aren't 12V transformers, they are constant current LED drivers, If you plugged the LEDS in with the power on to the drivers you will have blown the LEDs due to over voltage.

Don't forget the crazy date codes on some old cables, AEI used to use: MAYFLOWERS for 1234567890 e.g. MRLS for 1950 BICC used a similar system but I can never remember that one.

Long enough, that cable is a nightmare!

Hi, does anyone have a link to or copy of the update patch for the RSS software? I have the patch update to version v7.03 but need v7.04. I was able to download the last update via the Honeywell website but this time I just keep going around in circles. I've tried to register but that part of...

Does everything else in the property work with the valve closed?

I assume that is some sort of electronic cylinder stat? Not seen one like that before in the many unvented water heaters I've wired up. I wonder if it is programmed to cycle that way??

No where near as fun as the chemistry experiments though.

I've just looked up a photo of that unit, there is quite a lot of electronics in there. When you say no water from shower head, do any of the other outlets work? Or is the shower head the only one connected?

What is the model number of the thing it is attached to?

If you use 40C or lower wash cycles the hot water valve will never open.

As above it is likely the valves need replacing, but before you buy new valves, cut the mains power to the entire heating system. If they spring return then, you have a wiring fault, if they stay as they are they need replacement.

This is a Salus EP200, it's missing the hinged cover on the right of the unit.

Do you really have a gravity hot water system? Most of these systems have been removed years ago due to the huge inefficiency. If you can run the radiators without the hot water being on at the same like you have a fully pumped system, not gravity.

The wiring could use some improvement, single insulation shouldn't be visible outside the enclosure, each channel has 2 pairs of terminals for the actuators so there is no need to shove 2 wires into the same terminal etc...