Search results

With Loctite 55 you'll be fine. LSX on top overkill IMO, but would not harm.

Try a Fluidmaster side-entry fill valve instead of a ballcock.

In my distant, carefree, and overconfident yoof I once connected 240V to the low voltage terminals on an early Vaillant. Cost me half the profit on the job to rectify. You can't buy experience - or perhaps here I did.

Forum rules are no posts that might encourage DIY gas work.

Option 1 I've repaired worse than that. As mechanical damage goes that's a bit meh - try harder next time! :)

"Designer" = made to look pretty, but not to work.

Also: The Tado diagram posted applies to where the pump live is fed from the boiler ("pump run-on"). This cannot be the case here, rather it would be an old-style Y-plan. " The pump is in the airing cupboard with the wiring centre. If I could do this, that would make life a lot easier."...

https://www.electricautomationnetwork.com/PDF/ENGLISH/FINDER/CATEN_13Series.pdf I read this as : 240V SwL from Tado HTG NO "call for heat" closes contacts 13 (in) and 14 (out to load), in your case 13 would be permanent live. HTH Disclaimer: I'm also not a qualified electrician.

Are the first things to check. And while the mixer's off the wall flush the supply pipes.

Site cred is very much a thing, particularly when new. It's a very different equation buying tools from a newly qualifide's PAYE wages to the turnover of a self-employed guy 20 or 40years down the line. Nevertheless I propose the following rigid demarcation ; Plumbers...

Do you hear water flow when you open the square-shanked valve?

All excellent options. Down to taste, really, and how the tool moulds to your hand . Yes, 180mm for those sizes.

This sort of thing* can be used where a wallplate elbow is set back too far behind the finished surface. Available in different lengths and may be cut to suit. * I call it a 1/2" extension piece, but terminology varies

Then replace whole immersion with a different make, I suggest Backer. Seem to remember others reporting quality issues with Tesla.

That's good for the element itself; do you also have continuity through the removed thermostat terminals and no reading between thermostat terminals and brass body?

O.P. your installation is no less safe today than it was when newly installed. No service engineer has found otherwise when carrying out the mandatory safety checks that are a part of every service. All agree that it is "Not to Current Standards" Details of NCS here...

With the power off and stat disconnected as in your photo, get a multimeter and test resistances L-N, L-E, E-N. Also; the photo seems to show water staining on the casing from above and above right of the 'mersion

Turn the boiler stat (a control for the user located at the bottom of of the boiler behind a flap) down a bit. No tools required. Post picture of boiler or boiler details if unsure how to access or identify.

You'll need to pump or syphon the cistern ("tank") empty before cutting into the pipework to replace the gate valve in order to have a manageable amount of water in the the pipework to contend with. Towels and bucket to the ready!

It's a feature. No-one else will mind.