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In so far as simplifying the system to use just one source? Maybe I'm just lacking imagination but given the astronomical costs of fuel right now, I can't see how giving up alternative solutions or having them re-installed will work out cheaper than just installing an appropriate...

I've recently moved into a old property that has two sources for heating and three for hot water. The previous owner had a terrible system set up with two separate honeywell controls (timers) - one just to switch the oil fired boiler on and off, the other seemingly just operating the valves and...

[/url] That would seem to be perfect. Thanks! ban-all-sheds - I'm not adverse to chiselling out where I believe it's the best approach but the plaster on this particular wall is original and very fragile, I don't want to dislodge too much by hammering away at the brickwork. I'm useless...

I'm looking to tidy up the point where aerial/satellite coax cables enter with one of the following outlet plates - http://www.screwfix.com/p/labgear-screened-outlet-plate-quadruplex/91669 My 'problem' is that it requires a mounting box at least 35mm deep. The walls are solid brick, with a...

With apologies for answering my own question, I tried out the Loctite sealing cord that seems to be very popular with a lot of people here. I really didn't expect it to work given my earlier attempts with PTFE and the big difference in thread length between the nylon? elbow and the brass bush...

I hadn't considered that option. If I can find a cheap 25mm to 15mm copper reducer (Screwfix only do 20mm to 15mm) then it's a definitely one way to go, I have a length of 15mm copper going spare and 15mm wall plate elbows are only a couple of quid.

I recently installed some MDPE piping to create a stand pipe at the bottom of the garden. It terminates with a wall plate elbow (plastic), a 3/4" to 1/2" bush and outdoor tap. The problem is that the thread is too long on the wall plate...