Search results

This sounds like a solution to me, it makes sense in my head at least although i would need help in identifying which of the 4 wires coming into the box i need to use as well as the wiring of the relay and diodes mentioned! As for the receiver it is a plug in receiver and as the doorbell is in...

As posted earlier i took a reading across the top two terminals and it was showing 14V without the button pushed and dropping to 8V when pushed, I'm not sure i understand why there is always voltage there but thats why i am the one asking all the questions !

I think i tried various setting but have now taken a couple of readings with it set to AC !

Love this idea, solves the problem but does need me to buy more kit and not use what i have, one to remember though for sure, thanks.

I am not sure which two would have been the signal wires but reading across the top two in the picture gives 14V without the button in then down to 8V when pushed. Reading from the top right to bottom left gives 14V down to 1V when pushed. Thank you for the help in getting a reading, we are...

Here is the wireless button . . . DSC_0994 by tony27 posted 2 Dec 2016 at 3:42 PMDSC_0993 by tony27 posted 2 Dec 2016 at 3:42 PM It has some fancy sensor button thing that you just touch in fact just putting your finger inside the coil without touching it sets it off but that is not a concern as...

Now we are talking, great find, thank you, I like the set up apart from the fact if someone jabs the bell it doesn't always work as the wireless push needs time to power up before the always on button sends the signal. I am really happy with leaving the battery in the wireless push so if i can...

And not knowing about voltages and transformers is why i came here and didn't just connect the wires, I knew there would be power there but not knowing is my usual way of getting into trouble. I was hoping to find a way of bridging the two just because i can, of course i can go and buy more kit...

Here are a couple of pictures, I realised when taking the picture of the ringer i must have a transformer but as the button is on brick and the wires come out of the wall i thought it must be at the fuse box and sure enough, on the wall . . . 2016-11-30 11.09.19 by tony27 posted 30 Nov 2016 at...

doorbell

Ok this is an option but it would mean buying both the button/extender and another byron ringer to make it work. I am a little confused by the instructions listed and the wiring, I need to check my door bell, I don't have any instructions so i would only assume there is a transformer involved...

Nice idea, I still need the bell to ring in the house as we have three floors but actually i could buy a cheap twin ringer wireless and ring upstairs and the bottom of the garden as well as half the original ringer ?? hmm . . interesting, i will need to have a better look at the ringer, thank you.

I can indeed and no, not yet ! I am capable of doing the work I'm just not sure of what needs to go to and from where ! thanks for any guidance.

Hi All, I have a one year old property with a nice perfectly fine doorbell in the hall a few feet from the front door. I also have an office at the back of the garden and as such i cant hear the doorbell. I have a single bell wireless doorbell and button but i was thinking if i can take the fact...

Ok, would that be inside the unit in the shower where the pump is on the wall or where the unit connects to the mains . .not sure where that is as there is a switch for the shower on the wall in the airing cupboard but i am not seeing a transformer? Thanks, Tony.