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it's not the cost, just the access.

Has been sorted, but the prv still leaks/drips. Expansion vessel was flat and has been re-charged

it is possible to add an external PRV near the boiler, instead of replacing a dripping prv that is impossible to access inside a combi? And then drill a new whole and run a new pipe out, or even cap the original pipe and tee into that before it goes outside? Just a thought/query??

my local plumber said no to it..... so!!!!!! I'll have a go though as have time and am confident :)

is a normal pipe slice ok for lead or will a hacksaw be needed to take asample down to the plumbing shop?!

Thanks for your help What size leadlock will I need? Are they easy to fit, for normal diyers like me??

Also I have a stopcock ijn the street but have not used it before.

I did call in a pro and he said he didn't want to touch the lead!! But yes I am quite good at diy. Reason I called a pro in is because I was busy at work, but am off from now til Tuesday. What would your suggestions be?

Hello, I have a problem here I'd like to fix if possible: I have a stopcock coming in, under my sink units, which is lead, the stopcock is brass I think and the pipe from it is copper. The pipe goes up the loft, tank. The trouble is, the lead side is weeping, water is coming out, not too much...

Will I need new o-rings and fibre washers as they seem to have these on the parts that I will be removing? If so I'd like to have them ready before I start!!

Hi Chris The boiler has a diverter valve and plate heat exchanger. It says in the manual to remove the filling loop assembly, plate heat exchanger to get to the diverter valve. It is a Worcester 24 CDi RSF

Hello all, I have a few queries. Firstly: I have a combi boiler, a Worcester CDi RSF. Not a condensing type. The hot water doesn't come on anymore, the boiler does not fire up. The heating I tried to see and that worked fine. I believe the problem to be the diverter valve diaphragm...