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Great! Installed and working as it should be. All that b*ing about for a bad stat. Oh well, I know the CH/HW system fairly intimately now, and from now on I'm leaving it well alone - give me a broken computer to fix any day! Thanks again, have a great Christmas!

It's not, the heat is still on when the stat is switched off. Definitely going to be the same one, not going to start confusing things now! Thanks for all your help so far, I owe you a beer. Probably more than one! Here, have a virtual pint of the local brew:

Ah, it has, so there's a problem. When I get the new one do you think I should just wire it in like I did this one (after I've tested for the same fault that is)?

The stat itself has continuity, so I'm confused as to what could be wrong. As it happens my husband is out christmas shopping somewhere he can pick up a replacement quite easily.

By 'set up' do you mean programming the room stat? If so I'm pretty sure that's right, programming is my thing. Oh well, 30 mile round trip to the nearest Screwfix with this in stock, nowhere else local has one. Just hope the next one works!

Yes.

No link - no demand on boiler, no CH. Link - demand and CH on.

Yes, it stops.

Sod's law applies, the old room stat died so I can either have heating that's on or off with no temperature control, or no heating at all. Last night was cold, and I think my family hates me! Right, the new stat is on. I have live, the red wire, connected to LX. I have switched live, the...

Yes, there's resistance when the power's off. Swapped them over, the one that was originally on the CH system still had no resistance. I don't understand, everything was working fine with the old room stat. I was only changing over to get more control of day/night temps. Thanks for all...

One brown from the fused spur, one from the programmer. No resistance on the valve, so no it's not open - no whirring when I turn off either, so definitely staying shut.

Yes, HW is working. On the block that has two browns and a grey at the bottom, and a brown and a grey at the top - one of the browns at the bottom connects to the Live terminal on the programmer.

Only getting 1-2 volts off the brown coming from the Honeywell programmer, so I guess tomorrow morning's job will be to replace the cable!

Hold on, new info - I realised I was checking the wrong grey (bloody tangle of wires!) and the CH one is showing about 120v.

Right, checked and rechecked, rewired, but no power on grey. Which surprises me as I had one of the valve actuators replaced about 8 weeks ago (by a proper heating engineer) and I'd have thought that any problems would have shown up then. EDIT forgot to do the manual MV check, doing that now.

Yes, I did.

OK, voltage on the yellow but not the orange.

Sorry for the delay; yes, it is, so I'm connecting that to LX (which confirms my original wiring of the new stat was OK at least!) and the yellow (H on the old stat) will be L1, is that right?

Apologies, I didn't realise I wasn't being clear :oops: . Yes it does, the CH On terminal. (I have to go on a customer callout for an hour or so, I'll try and keep up with this on my phone if I can).

My old room stat has four wires going to it - earth (not attached), blue (neutral), red (live) and yellow (switched live). These are encased in a grey outer sheath. Since the ONLY red wire in the wiring box also comes from a grey outer sheath, I'd have thought it a reasonable assumption that...