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Mine seemed like I’d got away with it too for the first few months. I was putting pictures up on that wall yesterday, and decided it will need wallpapering.

I had the same situation. What @Wayners says is roughly what I did. Construction foam as the lintel was rough to attach a length of timber, but left a small gap between it and the door lining to reduce the chances of cracking when door is slammed. Then fitted 9.5mm plasterboard over the wood...

I thought plastic at shallow depth also needed concrete surrounding it? Unfortunately there are a couple of branches so I’d need a few clay to plastic adapters, would probably end up as a bit faff. Didn’t know paving slabs over could be a solution, though

Land currently serving no useful purpose to me. Do you have any advice on the question I asked?

I need to create a gravel driveway on an area of scrap land, that has some very shallow private sewers. 170mm from crown to ground level (At shallow end). 4" salt glazed. About 6m length. How am I best to concrete these in: - Can I concrete directly around the pipes, or should they be...

I thought you were looking to do an angled pipe into the main chamber? That would be even more digging if so. A diagram or sketch may help

Dunno why you don’t do the backdrop….. it’s the proper method and will get approved

For purely rainwater, I'd skip the chamber and just make sure there was a leaf guard in the end of the ACO. If you use a chamber, yes you cut your own 110mm holes in a plastic riser at the height you need, then fit a blank in the pipe. The drainage would go into the chamber base via the...

Plasterers can usually render too. I'd go for re-rendering the outside reveals most likely, it's less disruptive. Usually the old door would be cut in place with a reciprocating saw and removed, and the replacement be a bit smaller so it goes in more easily.

https://www.saxtonblades.co.uk/tct-circular-saw-blades/shop-by-size/165-216mm-blades/?product-category=210mm-blades-165-216mm-blades Saxton has never let me down. 80T is pretty fine, but they do 100T as well which I'd never seen until now. Should make a very clean cut.

Drop shaft is the way to go

We used 25mm PIR around the external walls, and the 8-10mm foam expansion strip against inner walls (PIR will compress if required by screed). Your wall will get 10mm or more of Hardwall or sand/cement, then 3mm skim. Then 18mm skirting will easily cover any remaining all up.

Valid point, I'm used to blocks!

More research says if the charge controller needs replacing, so does the user interface so the software matches. Disappointing, and £170 or thereabouts.

Thank you, this is of great help! It's a Series G, and I found the correct manual via your link - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2351616/Dimplex-Qm050.html?page=16#manual The bi-metallic thermostats on the left show open circuit, which I would expect. The room temp reads as between...

Excuse my stupidity, but which are the temp sensors? I believe there may be one in the insulation along the bottom. I think the 2 devices in series on the left end are thermal cutouts? 1 seems to have a reset. At the bottom of the left is a something, which has 2 wires and I cannot identify...

Brick it up yourself. If its out the way as you say then even if its not perfect it won't matter, and you've gained a new skill. 1 bag of cement, couple of bags of sand, s drop of fairy liquid are all you need. Chop the half bricks out with a bolster if you want, or as suggested inset it a...

Bed the new pipe of pea gravel, build up the sides with concrete 10-150mm (No mesh, not necessary at all), and depending on height above the pipe, either more concrete (so just encase it all in 1 pour) or a thick iron plate across the top - 10mm would be enough..

I am familiar with Google, thanks. Dimplex confirmed it shouldn’t get that hot, and it never has done nearly 10 years

Thanks, but I need a repair or service manual