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It’s a Combi boiler. That flue goes straight outside. Raising the height of a tower to above the pipe work, would mean raising it by just over 2ft, where I’ve planned the boxing to end. Wouldn’t this effectively be just creating a wall cabinet around the boiler instead of having a full length...

@foxhole It's anchoring the right hand side panel that I think will be a struggle, there isn't much space to slide in a full side panel, between the pipes in-situ, and I'm expecting to have to make some serious swiss cheese to get that in. However, not sure how I'm gonna secure that right-hand...

Thanks. So maybe not even a kitchen tower? Just some panels from B&Q? I’m wondering how the side panel will have any support? Juts by being bracketed to the wall with L-Shape brackets perhaps?

Struggling with this. I imagined I could buy a standard kitchen tower and cut and chop it a bit so it would hide this boiler and give me a nice door. Maybe even a bit of storage underneath. But I just can’t see how I could get a tower here and have any rigidity. There seem to be pipes in just...

So, boxing in where I’ve marked in green and then putting in a kitchen wall cabinet to cover the boiler perhaps? Should it be ply or mdf? Ideally I want to be able to unscrew the front faces in case any of the water joints develop a leak or the water waste gets blocked?

Never done this before so hoping to get some advice on how to approach boxing in these pipes, and maybe putting the boiler behind a cupboard. While I’m somewhat familiar with how to do boxing in, from videos, I really don’t know how to approach what happens when I get to the boiler? It’s...

OP here. Finally started this. Decided to try to keep as much of the wall as possible, as it serves as a Gravel board and removing the wall, means removing footings as well anyway. It’s certainly a tough job! Digging out the buried part of the posts, and separating them from the wall footings...

I think this will be how it goes. I’m happy to mix up some mortar, just don’t want to destroy the wall footings.

Unfortunately, only two still remain. The other three have broken off at wall level.

The bricks do see to be on some solid footings. The footings are very neat on one side, being the same width as the brick work. But on the other side, they extend out a bit further than the brick coarse, which means potentially damaging the footings in order to dig in any spurs or alternative...

Not sure that could work here. Not least because there is the wall section in situ, but also because it would mean the end posts would now be further away from the boundary ends, leaving an odd gap to fill (especially if planning to slot standard size fence panels in the concrete post grooves).

I did consider this but figured I’d still have some issues with digging in the spurs, with the wall footings causing a bit of obstruction. Not sure why the original posts decomposed so badly. I’ve no way of knowing how old they are, I moved here 8yrs ago and they were already like this. I don’t...

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I need to reinstate my rear garden fence. The original appears to have been done with concrete posts, six feet apart, and then a couple of courses of bricks between them, acting like a gravel board. It was probably a nice job back in the day but the concrete posts have blown and mostly...

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I’ve got a 1930s external garden wall which is very badly neglected. As it’s never gonna look pretty It seems like a perfect way to learn how to repoint a wall. One thing I’m concerned about though, in all the videos I’ve seen, people rake out about 20mm of the existing mortar, which usually...

Just this dimension here in blue. Being shorter in this dimension means that it’s not easy to grab an off-the-shelf replacement from another manufacturer (e.g my B&Q P-trap). Always assumed these things were kinda standardised!

Perfect. I understand. This is great thanks. I’ll order the Mcalpine replacement. One thing I don’t understand. Why is a height adjustable P-Trap narrower / shorter in width than a standard P-trap?

Yes, this looks spot on. Many thanks. The waste trap in the sink is defo 40mm. I don’t quite follow where I’m cutting though (if need be)?

Cheers, that makes sense. I’ve left it for now but will see if I can make that work when I get back to it. One problem I think I’m might have is that I couldn’t unscrew the highest nut / compression fitting on the old trap, it felt glued. But I might just need to try more force..