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I mean it's hard to take pictures because it's covered now apart from a couple bits of holes and cracks that sre visible from outside! I did see the condition of the wall before it was covered but assumed it wouldn't be finished like that? From inside the bathroom, the lower part is hidden...

Currently having various roof repair work done. I'm not completely happy with a dry verge that has been added butI don't know enough about roofing to know if what's been done is right or normal or not. The dry verge has been added to the side of a lean-to roof on the single storey bathroom at...

Thanks that's really helpful. I just need to do some working out now and refer to the thread mentioned earlier aswell. But I'll leave that til after the holiday I think! Merry Xmas!

Missing the points but I won't bother with discussing this irrelevance any more, and wait for helpful replies.

I wouldn't be able to enjoy the life I do if I didn't make sure I'm always doing and getting things for the best price. I don't have deep pockets. It's not about cutting corners or doing things cheaply but just doing the math to determine the best options rather than throwing unnecessary hard...

Would this definitely be cheaper than the other options? And how thin could concrete go above the dpm to keep cost and floor height down? Although I imagine the other materials would be more expensive per volume, if a thinner layer can be used then the cost difference would change... Hence my...

Concrete over the top of everything now should be ok though as it is bonded? I'd probably be looking at 1 m3 volume of whatevers used. Does anyone know how much it would cost for the same amount of a self levelling compound? As for the DPM and top layer... I don't know the exact options there...

I looked at the one about adding a surface DPM and one about self levelling concrete. Wouldn't those approaches be very expensive? I'm assuming the levelling compounds are expensive and I have quite a difference in levels. I'm also quite happy to raise the floor a bit if it makes it cheaper...

Been trying to figure this out. Saw a few more ideas online now and am more unsure so thought best to ask here. I want to level the downstairs concrete floors as they are all at different levels throughout, very rough and uneven, and there isn't a full and proper DPM so want to add that. I...

I'll text him. I said to bend a wire coathanger into an L-shape, but that way is better.

Yeah that's what I meant. I don't know why last night I said he'll probably put an RCD FCU upstream of the socket. I'm very sleep deprived. If the heater's on a plug and there's still only that one socket on the spur then an upstream FCU is unnecessary. He is just going to change the plug...

Sure. Can always hang wet clothes from the cable to dry out. :whistle: No, the bathroom walls are studs so he will drill a hole behind the heater and feed it through and up to the loft.

Yeah, I don't think he would like that on the landing! I'm going to speak to him again in the morning. He'll probably be happy to omit a switch outside the bathroom altogether, and just put a 13A RCD FCU upstream of the socket, then just have the heater plugged into the standard loft socket...

It's not the "right" way, and I know it would turn up some noses, though it is still safe. I think he would prefer it as it is the easiest option. The switched FCU was still going to be added outside the bathroom as it would allow isolating the heater without entering the loft, though maybe it...

Thanks everyone for the input. He's going to go with a 13A RCD FCU in the loft before the socket, then continue the spur radial 2.5mm from the loft socket to a 13A DP FCU on the wall outside the bathroom, then continue the 2.5mm spur back through the loft to the heater. Or, as suggested change...

Sorry I'm on the phone at the moment but there is one socket outlet in the loft (the plural reference was because it is a double socket). My bad.

I suppose if using 230V for the maths then 11500W/230V=50A, so a 45A breaker wouldn't trip. The issue here is still with the wiring. It is 10mm cable. The shower circuit was added to the original part of the house when they had an extension built in the 90s and other new wiring and the consumer...

I wasn't sure if diversity would apply in this instance, and as I understand it is not always an exact science, sometimes relying on judgement calls. I think my dad would be happiest knowing it is both safe and compliant first and foremost, followed by what would be easiest to install. Cost is...

Yes, 63A is what I thought, but I'm not sure how the cable is installed without further investigation. Otherwise the rating for 10mm is 43A isn't it? So the shower and heater would be slightly too much? If putting the heater on the sockets circuit, I don't believe there is RCD protection. Would...

Sorry, I'd edited previous post. After a bit of detective work via phone, it is 40A MCB in the consumer unit, 10mm cable to an external 80A RCD, 10mm cable to a pull cord switch, and 10mm cable to shower. My calculation for shower and heater is 11500kW / 240V = 48A. Would it be possible to...