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Really depends on the effect you're after both in terms of colour and sheen. Colour first. There are a myriad number of different tints and pigmented hardwax oils around. Wood dye can be used first but you do need to be careful to avoid the overlap marks etc. Easiest these days are pigmented...

Fillers can be tricky when staining! Either try changing the filler or the Hardware Oil. For the filler, Bona make Mix and Fill and Blanchon make Resin Filler. Broadly the same and for either of them, you essentially mix the sanding dust from the final sanding with the liquid into a paste and...

This was fairly comprehensively covered in this thread! //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/worried-about-staining-pine-floor-bona-mega-finish.475140/

The Bona Mix and Fill will like most of the similar offerings from other manufacturers take either lacquer or hardwax oil. These fillers are only good for cracks and thin/hairline gaps in floors on a solid substrate though. On joists there is too much movement so any filler in gaps will just...

Most sanding contractors will finish at 120 grit for Hard Waxoils or sometimes as high as 180 grit when prepping for lacquer (as lacquers these days are almost all water based, the wood grain tends to rise and open when exposed to water so providing the mechanical key to the first coat) There...

Well, HWO and lacquers both have their pros and cons. Lacquers on the upside are durable but they are a topical coating (rather than HWOs which are more of a penetrative coating) So sitting as a single layer on the surface of the wood, lacquer is tough but if you scratch it (drag a heavy piece...

There are plenty of stains out there that really aren't that tricky to do evenly! Go for a spirit-based one though (as opposed to water-based where when you apply the Bona Mega which is also water-based, it will redillute the stain's colourants and can result in a cloudy look) and go with the...

Osmo is a good product but its drawback is the problem you identify with the orange-ing. If you can clean the boards back to bare wood, try a coat of Treatex colour tone in their spruce finish, and then two coats of their Hard Waxoil in natural finish. We use this when we are asked to give a...

Pigmented Hard Waxoils (irrespective of manufacturer) need to be buffed or clothed off by hand to even out the pigment. The roller overlap in your photo shows that this hasn't been done. The floor's tone though does look quite dark, so I'm wondering if your builders have used a stain first? If...

How you sand then depends on how much of a perfectionist you are about it - a pro would likely use three types of sander: a drum sander to get the existing coat off, an orbital sander (also referred to as a buffing machine) to even out the main floor area and an edging sander to do the same...

Pilsbury - any idea what species the wood blocks are? This will in part determine what coating product to apply once you've sanded it all back. A photo might help!

And avoid the DIY stuff like Ronseal or cheaper brands like Blanchon - you may think you're saving two or three pounds a litre, but remember the bulk of the work is in the sanding and preparation. It's a false economy to save a few quid on cheaper coatings and then end up having to sand back and...

Depends what level of wear you're expecting. Most varnish (or lacquer as it's normally referred to) manufacturers offer one pack and two pack systems. The one pack is as the name suggest you just open the container and pour straight out ready to roll onto the floor. These are cheaper and...

Or let someone else do the chemistry - Scroll down to the reactive stains here: http://www.ciranova.be/media/files/Kleuren_Colors_Couleurs_Ciranova_2013_1371025750.pdf and look at the black. I've used it a fair bit and always get good results. You could then use a black hard waxoil to finish...

Def knock the nail heads down to just below the level you will sand to - as ree says above, you'll shred your sanding belts otherwise and that gets expensive... If you do need to fill indentations or hairline cracks either side of the slivers, use one of the fillers where the dust from the final...

If your floor is actually wood (engineered or solid) absolutely do not use steam!! Water is bad enough as it is which is why manufacturers recommend using a well wrung mop when cleaning. If its a laminate or other synthetic wood-look material, steam away! Wood floor refreshing methods are...

Osmo is a definitely a good choice in most instances but can in my experience cause a slightly more pronounced 'orange-ing' effect that can be more apparent on pine, which is just a little bit more susceptible to this effect than other species like oak. Other hard waxoils by manufacturers like...

I'd agree with ree, but before you go to the expense and trouble of hiring out the sanding machines, it may be worth seeing if one of the boards can be lifted out without damaging adjoining ones. This way you can get a sense of the condition of the boards and just manually sand it back to bare...

You'll be fine with that one, honestly! And it'll work for your other rooms too!

Once you get going with the sanding, you'll soon get into a rhythm. Geraldthehamster - your point (ChilliBob, this is off-topic from your thread so perhaps I should be putting it in a seperate thread!) about water-based varnish (or lacquers as they are termed in the trade) being inferior to...