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Won't spin! Brought 2nd hand, first wash, it's done, but won't spin, just sits on agitating backwards and forwards. I can hear some water draining off. Are the brushes gone if it can still go backwards and forwards? There is some noise between these cycles, but not certain what it is...

I haven't tried to lift it no, but it'll be myself and my brother and we both used to work as hod carriers so I'm hoping it won't be too back breaking. Cheers for the tips, I'll lie it on it's back, and hopefully it won't lose a belt or anything post move. I've been told already it has...

I'm probably going to have to lie it down to fit it in the back of an estate car. Is this going to screw it up? I've heard rumours of concrete blocks inside etc etc.... It's a Hotpoint if that makes any difference. My back is not looking forward to lifting it either.

Probably a simple one, isolator valve connecting to the plastic screw threaded (Getting technical here, sorry......) bit that goes through the cistern.....is leaking. Should I use PTFE? it's wierd as it looks like it is trying to compress onto the plastic pipe....... should there be...

did the drain down with header tank running..........no joy, did it again, no joy. Went to the hot water tank cupboard, solenoid in there for hot water CH or both, turned it through 360 degrees (The selector switch on the front), lots of gurgling and banging noises, rads were hot within a...

I've been quoted to replace 5 fence panels, new concrete posts (Stagger so they won't clash with the old ones which will just be sawn off), and to lay a concrete shed base for a 8 x 8ft shed. £900 inc materials. Is this ok? _____________________ lynda, moderator please note forum rule 9

Cheers for the response. All rad's are cold so I'm guessing it can't just be my new valve blocked, sorry if I didn't explain that well. Talking to a collegue of mine, he agreed with my "Flushing idea" I'll post if it worx or not as a guide to others.... Now then, where to buy inhibitor at...

Help! My system (header tank, potty netaheat boiler) had a leaking rad valve upstairs. Drained down, replaced, filled up, bled rads (Though they have no more air in, but the water drips out, rather than being forced?) So, no hot rads anywhere. I can hear the CH pump working (Gudforce?)...

I can just see daffodils coming up outside, it hasn't started to bud yet, can I still cut it back so it comes back bushy rather than straggly?

any idea where I can get an old style approx 17yr old hinge from? it's a single hinge, with an extra plastic bit that screws to the door edge and holds the "tab" from the hing in place. trying to avoid new hinges if possible. I'll try and post a picture. Mostly used on dark brown...

......on the tradesite. I think my mate has a trade account set up, I'll drag him down there, thanks for the help.

I read somewhere it's a standard metric size. My brother quipped I've gotten a standard "Euro House"......how I laughed.....hahaha......before I slapped him. I can see Magnet's webshite, but I can't see the doors, I only see kitchens?

After skipping my doors, I found out they were non-standard metric sizes 2040 x 726 and 2040 x 626 B&Q (Thank god) do the 2040 x 726, does anyone know anywhere that will do 2040 x 626? White panel? //www.diynot.com/shop/6_Panel_Interior_Door_H2040mm/10210 Any help greatly...

The wall is............dry faced breeze block? I think that's the right description, plaster over breeze block. it's to be used for shelving to fit under the stairs, rising with the tread of the stair.........Now prepare yourself for the worst diagram to ever grace the diynot website...

I want to build a chunky shelving unit under my stairs, it will be wall mounted so I can't over engineer it, where can I get the material I need? I think I am looking at faced/veneered particle board/woodchip, about the thickness of normal kitchen worksurface, but it needs to be light enough...

Yippee! Ordered up yesterday........ It's single sheet, being fitted in a bathroom to wooden floor. Do I need to put hardboard underneath to have a level surface i.e. no gaps between the floorboards, or will it be ok straight onto floor boards? I brought the adhesive off the site too...

......double check your socket are supplied from the ring main. My ones turned out to be running off the light ring, max load 5amps.......

rubber = kinky! It's also quite cheap and waterproof. She's still fighting for tiles, we get some rubber samples today so I'll see how we go. Karndean also looks good.

Please help settle our "discussion". We have a small bathroom, just refitted all in white. With no windows or natural light. About 1/2 of the wall space is tiled. I would prefer a single sheet of rubber flooring as it's that small a 1.7 metre sheet will fill it. The better half would...

I have old vinyl in my kitchen, must I rip it up, or can I lay the underlay then the laminate straight on top? It's in avererage condition, no lumps or bumps.