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Hi Tony - anything with bricks normally gets expensive and we're on a tight budget however its the best looking way to do and if we had a few more pennies it would be the way to go.

Yes under the addendum to the 6th edition sewers for adoption i think the smaller one will be ok as long as it serves one property only and is for 100dia. which it would be in your case. I can check the regs when I'm back at work Monday but fairly sure you'll be alright! It's only just come out...

make sure your new run is steeper than 1:80 for a 100dia. pipe (110 if using plastic), you need to achieve around 1m/sec or better for self cleansing velocity, this is quite important with foul and you dont want it to steep or your get seperation! Try and also get 600mm cover above the soffit of...

In this case i dont think upgrading the timber or doubling up would work, i want the dormer to be abt 6.5m in length and a lot of the weight from that will come down them end rafters. As a rule if you take one rafter out you should double up and we're looking to remove 15 or 16! I think...

my engineer is saying its the doubled up rafters that can't cope with the increased loadings and if the dormer gets extended, doubled or tripled rafters would fail, theres nothing timber wise that would cope he says.

I think what he's getting at is to stop the doubled up rafters from failing they need to be propped by the flitch beam below. He did specify min. 10mm thk ply for the dormer cheeks, this i think would act as diaphrams.

Thanks for all your help I will try and clarify things with him tomorrow but this has certainly helped. I will give the dormer roof some more thought, there may be scope to change the whole roof to tiles and have the flat section sloping away from the ridge beam and then I could use ridge...

Well the joists have been designed to take a load from the new vertical purlin props but that's only on the opposite side of the roof. On the side of the dormer there will be no purlin to worry about, between the dormer cheeks that is. The rest of that side, ouside the extents of the dormer...

sorry about that, the website only accepts image files which blow out as soon as you zoom in. The image you see of the dormer was only drawn so i could get an idea of materials, and will not be giving it to the carpenter to build. I'll attach a couple of extracts from a simplified drawing which...

Hi thanks for posting, I've attached a typical arrangement of the dormer construction and a plan showing the joists/beams in the attic room, the dormer cheeks will be over the line of FB2 & FB3 flitch beams. Hope this gives you an idea. Many thanks :D