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Others may well be able to advise you better than me, but if it was me in your position I'd get an engineer. Our roof use the same sized joists and rafters at centres that varied from between 45 and 60cm. We had no collar, but we did have a hanger. We wanted to do similar to you, but with the...

Just too far out of my price range. I would compromise with a better quality 4mm if more in my price range for a decent quality engineered product. However, I've found a 6mm product at this website : http://www.naturaloakfloors.co.uk/ They claim that all their engineered product are made...

Thanks, but I hope the position of the top slate will allow for that, and I've a fear it won't! Yes, was thinking that would be sensible: - soffit or fascia vents - running into the eave air space that then communicates with cavity wall below - running into air space behind loft converted...

It wasn't a comment criticising the necessity of the the ventilation, it was a question questioning the method of achieving it, because presumably the loft converted houses round where I am do have adequate ventilation, and the fact that aesthetically imagining what a tile vent placed a 40...

Really? Wow, so don't touch any of these companies with a bargepole then: http://www.nagleflooring.co.uk/product_20%7C6-X180x1860mm-T&G--Lacquered_60_index.php http://www.oakfloorsonline.co.uk/?template=product.html&category=engineered-oak&productKey=pro-7063cde0000013...

That's a lot of tile vents. While there are plenty of older building sarked the same way and that have loft conversions in our area, I've seen none with that number of tile vents!!! And presumably for a tile vent to be any use, the sarking will need cut to allow air to communicate internally...

Thanks, that very helpful. 50mm should still leave enough room still for a decent bit of insulation. Though, we currently don't have any vents in the soffits or ridges, so I guess I'm going to have to put quite a few in...

Does it make any difference if the modern breather membrane placed under the slates is situated on top of continuous (i.e. under the tiles / membrane the roof would look like it is covered with solid wooden plank nailed to the rafters) wooden sarking? Or would 1" be sufficient?

Already very grateful for the useful advice received previously on this forum. I am now trying to source some engineered oak wood flooring. I am looking for: - 1 strip oak - 120mm or more - 6mm wear - matt lacquer finish / just not too shiny - not too worried about the thickness provided...

So acoustically: - solid or engineered wood on timbermate will be okay for sound, but best would be to fix the floor - is that with or without underlay - why could this not be nailed down into chipboard (please excuse my ignorance!) - presumably the thicker engineered products can be secret...

I'd say the sound issue is about avoiding an evil rather than the be all and end all. We certainly want to have a wood at presentation face, either solid or engineered. It looks like engineered is the way to go. So therefore two questions: - can the engineered wood only be laid floating over...

That should have said "lacquer" not "laminate"!

Okay, thanks for the replies! :) So it looks like engineered wood is the product I need, and as long as there is a decent bit of wood in the top layer, then it'll probably be acoustically okay. Would tongue and groove be better, hidden nailing into the chipboard below, or should I use glue...

Hi This is my first post so hello! I am planning on installing an oak floor on top of a suspended chip board floor, which I previously installed when we weren't sure what floor surface we would have. Potential considerations are: - likely heavy use, so needs to be reasonably firm wearing -...