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BTW, that 5-mile radius is pretty much true and it's a semi-circle as he lives on the coast!

If you use Hep2O you only have to take it to 10 bar. If I use it I generally have far more copper joints on the system and never unduly worry about that if its a first fix.

Not so, the following is from their website... First carry out a low pressure water test at 0.5 - 1 bar when the system is just demountable fittings, then a pressure test at 1.5 x the normal working pressure with a recommended minimum of 10 bar for a minimum of 45 mins. However if any of our...

I use Hep and take it to 1.5x working pressure for a while then up to 10bar.

Thanks Agile, I'll try that way first, sounds a lot easier! This seems to be installed the traditional way but it's getting pumped from a newish combi!

Converting to two pipe is last case scenario. The feed to the downstairs rad comes down the corner of the room in 15mm. So if I replace that by extending the one pipe down that corner in 22mm (same as existing one pipe) and loop back up then tee off to the new rad from that, which will be about...

You need an oil pressure gauge to check the pump is running freely and stable, then set the pressure to the correct setting and then put a flue gas analyser on it to get the correct CO2. The boiler if not set up correctly can produce excess carbon monoxide and be a death trap. Get someone in and...

If it's an airlock try turning off all the other rads except the one you want to get warm, the air should blow through.

And leave it on full, like in the picture, when putting it on/off.

Pull all the plastic off all the metal. You'll need to twist it (over not round) and be a little assertive with it.

Rip it out!

Get someone in who knows what they're doing.

Just pull it off. It will expose a pin that the head pushes up and down to control the heat. It's this pin being stuck up or down that is a common cause of rads being permenantly on or off. If it's stuck give it a spray with some GT85 or similar and a gentle tap to free it up. Don't pull on the...

Hi all, fitted a new rad on the ground floor of a small house with a worser bodge combi. Pipe work running from the room above. There was already a loose board upstairs which I lifted and teed into "flow & return", filled up and everything was pretty as a picture until I fired her up... No heat...

I realise this is after the event but for anyone that picks up this thread the Grandee combis I've seen continuously pump through the plate heat exchanger to ensure there is hot water on demand because there is no slave tank. There is no voltage to the flow switch on hot water only but there is...

Thanks Ian & Dan, I'll have to put some sort of bypass past the check valve to enable the pump to be reversed but I'll give it a try after checking for a blockage on the tee. I was thinking it might be a new cylinder with gravity coil but its going to be a difficult sell. I drained down to put a...

Help, I have a problem getting gravity circulation going through an indirect cylinder. Rayburn LPG, pumped central heating with check valve on CH flow and pump on return, f&e feed taps into top of return at cylinder, expansion into top of flow at cylinder. Have tried to kettle system, back fill...