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I’m on holiday and beer at the pool can be a bad thing when it comes to IPads, the sun and trying to read the screen properly :LOL:

Yup, I hate auto correct sometimes, it was mean to be “shouldn’t”

As was suggested in your previous post, I would recommend you get someone in to sort your system out, what you are attempting isn’t the easiest to DIY, it needs knowledge for that type of boiler, as it seems you are finding out. Also, If the expansion vessel is down the right hand side of the...

Yeah, spotted that 2nd of looking, (y) I should know better that to assume anything on here without checking.

Presumed it was a 32mm waste given it was a basin trap, ah well

You’ll be needing one of these https://www.toolstation.com/mcalpine-abs3235g-cb-solvent-weld-chrome-plated-straight-connector-x-abs-connector/p31551

If you have a cold water cistern (CWSC) in the attic and HW cylinder on 1st floor then you really need full flow 3/4” taps to maintain proper flow. Anything less and it will reduce the flow.

Depending on how it is wired, if it’s a standard S plan 240v switching, then The boiler will show the rad symbol regardless of whether its heating the cylinder or the rads, as that is just showing there’s a call for heat at the boiler to create hot water for the whole system. Where that hot...

No, waste water that has been diverted to a collection system would be say a water barrel or storage tank and that water can then be recycled say to fill toilets etc. Water that ultimately heads down the drain, however it gets there, should be covered by Doc H. As I mentioned, I’m not sure...

I think what the trouble here is what’s defined as a service and what they consider acceptable, you may need to discuss that with them. With a 42CDI a fan pull (pressure) test would usually need to be done. Results would dictate if the HEX needs opened up and cleaned or not. That’s even before...

Not normally, air in a system tends to head to one rad, usually the highest one on the system. Hence why it’s usually the upstairs towel rad that catches it all.

@Fallout is a tradesman, so all he needs to do is add a seat cutting tool to his tool bag. That being said, in all my years of doing this I’ve only ever had to cut the seats on a deck mixer twice and then that was just because they were pitted not that they actually really needed it. I’ve found...

Could be air settling out but unless there is a leak then that should stop after a short time. Another area could be noisy valves but that would only be obvious if you’re running the system. Do you have a hot water cylinder.

I’m very much a believer is repairing rather than replacing if possible. Too much thrown away these days for the want of a little work and some new parts.

You need to understand what your system needs first. No point in just buying things and throwing them on. As suggested, if the pressure rises when the system is on, the red vessel (EV) needs checked and either serviced or replaced. The 3 port may be at fault but wiring, programmer etc needs...

Or just fit a reviver kit https://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-bathroom-basin-contract-tap-reviver-kit/12204

Not sure pressure has been measured? Finding out where the hammer sounds worse will help. Identifying the outlets that’s causing it etc. turning down the stop tap normally won’t alleviate the hammer, hammer is due to pressure not flow, turning down the stop tap only reduces flow. Your plumber...

No reason you wouldn’t be able to source and fit a smart timer, so you can connect to that rather than an actual smart immersion element itself, if you see what I mean.

Run a hairdryer around it and get it nice and hot, as there will be dampness still in there, silicone then won’t seal to it. Then use a solvent to clean, I use brush restorer. Meths, isopropyl alcohol etc. Grout can be sealed with a liquid sealer but if there are actual gaps then only removal...

One of these > with one of these in the dead end ............