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If you don't have spare pipe then no - no reason not to do that.

Nope - disconnect the valve off the pipe then replace the valve with the tap - then use a wee bit of pipe in the top of the tap and then connect the valve into that. so just moving it all up a little and put the tap where the valve is at the moment.

Don't see the problem there - just needs the current drop valve swapped for a different one - one preferably not pneumatic, but loads that would suit. The trouble will be getting to the old one, pas that cabinet - removing it and making it all watertight again and making good but shouldn't be...

Not necessarily - it's not really an all in one standard trap setup but it all seems to be secure and in good condition. usual approach would be a P trap on the 1/2 bowl and the main sink waste runs into that. Normal arrangement for me would be one of these I would disconnect the valve at...

yup, that's quite specific with the hard pipe riser fitting straight into the bar with the handset outlet below. Worst case it would all need replaced.

Ideally you'll need a GSR to fit and test but the Sabre's are rebadged Vokeras, so if you're real lucky you may be able to find one from some old stock for it. It's done well if it's still chugging along.

Ah ok, the 2 standard 45's would be the ones to use - you just use a small piece of 40mm waste pipe fitted into them, then glue, to connect them.

The UG pipe just isn't UV stable, that's all, if it's indoors then it won't be an issue

As long as the waste will go back far enough to clear the appliance, then job's a guddun.

depends on the model I guess - post a link to the actual shower

The height of the waste pipe is dictated by the height of the outflow into the stack/drain - without seeing where that pipe heads out/into the stack, it would be hard to say how low it could be taken and still keep a suitable fall, to then use the service cutout in the appliance. Without...

The baton doesn't support the unit per sé - the legs do that. all the baton may do is provide an anchor to stop the unit from being pulled forward - cutting out a section, just enough to allow the pipe to sit closer to the wall shouldn't compromise anything. If the copper is tight enough to...

I think we already covered this? https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/dishwasher-installation-room-issues.622622/ I think the approach should still be the same - whereby the pipe is moved back against the wall in the sink cupboard, the vertical baton is cut to allow the new waste pipe to be...

As suggested - That brass ring with the holes will probably tap around to the left to unscrew. The trick will be getting a cartridge to suit once it's out. As suggested may be easier just to get a replacement bar shower. Only issue with that these days is how cheap some of these things are...

Unless you are cutting back the pipework and sealing off traps etc then just run all the outlets once a month - the hot taps till they heat up. That'll replenish the traps and flush out the pipework. The toilet will retain its water seal for a lonnnnnng time - pour in a little bleach to avoid...

As suggested - do it properly, with a proper appliance trap. You do get Y pieces though, if there was nothing else for it.

If it's pic 1 then yes it's an auto air vent - tighten down the black dust cap for now and that should stop it till it can be replaced. CH System need depressurised and then the vent can be replaced. If it's at the top of the system then very little draining will be needed.

In fact if you have a tool to do the job ( multi/dremel/1mm angle grind/hacksaw/etc) then just cut the fitting right at the bend of the elbow, that'll allow it both ends to be drained easily and then just heat either end and twist off. You will need to really clean each end (hot end then wet...

Because any leaks found during testing would mean that any work could be performed at the time and caught quickly. I always pressure test any system being converted from open vent, to me it's just good practice and believe shows a level of professionalism and customer service, especially if they...

If the fitting is to be removed then drill a hole right at the elbow and allow it to drain, are you sure you can't drain it though, what's below the level of that pipe? Nothing/no fitting that you can get to?