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Yes! I guess I will find out for myself then. I will be running a dehumidifier in there anyway so I guess it should be ok

Hi I am planning to insulate my concrete prefab garage along with the roof using 20mm foil backed foam insulation boards. For the walls this is fine but the roof will be cement fibre big 6 corrugated sheeting. Will I need to ventilate this somehow as there will be air gaps due to the ridges...

Ok so something like this is what I was thinking initially. I guess i could also triangulate it off the other beam that is resting above the window/doors if I wanted. Would they be better horizontally than like this though?

Oh ok something more like this then?

Hi the ceiling will not be open/vaulted. From what i can understand you are recommending something similar to this? (Please excuse the poor diagram!) The only bit i dont fully understand is "This method relys upon a good fixing of the pole plate and you would need to add an angle...

OK that doesn't seem like a great option then. If I was to do it properly and used an RSJ what size would it need to be? Thanks

The flitch beam looks interesting but fairly expensive. Would a 75mm x 200m or similar beam be OK to use? Also does it change anything it I make the rafters 400mm centres instead of 600? Cheers

That is correct. Could I put a bigger piece of timber in instead or is an RSJ really needed? Cheers

Hi I am in the process of converting my porch flat roof into a mono pitched roof using plain concrete tiles. The existing roof is 1.8m deep and 3.8m wide. My concern is that the front 6x2" beam where all the weight will now be is only supported each end by brickwork, as the front of the...

Cheers for all the info all that's left now is to wait for some decent weather and and get on with it!

Ok thats good then. I take it if a row is 22 standard tiles and 1 tile and 1/2 when doing the eaves I need to cut one of the eaves tiles in half but not put it on the end, as there isn't enough to fix it it to? Cheers

Thanks that's good to know. Like you say I think I might just try on the roof and see how they fit then adjust accordingly. If I did choose to use a continuous dry verge system I take it I still need to have the correct overhang and couldn't fix straight to the cladding, as the overhang...

Thanks that does work out better. My only concern is that the overhang will be less than 30mm when I add the 12mm shiplap cladding to the side. Maybe I am best to just make the roof slightly wider by about 20mm each side to accommodate the 22 standard tiles?