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I didn't buy a faulty PCB, I bought a new one to replace the faulty one that was in the boiler from new. The difficult bit was confirming the problem as being the PCB, as it was intermittent. It'd sometimes go for days, responding normally to room stat commands, then get stuck on for no...

Just to close this off, a new PCB was fitted just after that last post and the system now works faultlessly. It fires first time, every time, whenever there's a call for heat, and shuts down instantly when satisfied (with just the normal pump over-run). It looks at long last as if all the...

This raises a point that has bothered me for some time now. What can a DIY'er do, legally, with a gas boiler? In the past I've always assumed that as long as the gas side of things wasn't touched in any way, then DIY repair was OK. In fact years ago I used to clean and service an old cast...

Is removing the boiler front cover (which is what I take to have happened here) tantamount to accessing the "sealed combustion area"? I ask because I've been asked to do the same by two people that have fixed my boiler (also an Ecotec) whilst they've been on the other end of the phone...

Yes, I understand that and realise that dabbling around in the second level without understanding the consequences of some actions could stop the boiler working properly. However, in this instance all I've done is take a note of all the settings in my current PCB so that when I fit the new one...

Thanks very much for that, although it's not reassuring to think I may have just bought an expensive bit of knackered stock! My understanding is that the procedure for fitting the new PCB is to disconnect the power, remove all the PCB connections, remove the PCB, fit the new one, replace all...

I double checked the expansion vessel with a digital tyre pressure gauge, and the current guy and I did run through the empty the system, empty the pressure vessel, recharge the pressure vessel and re-pressurise the system routine (more than once, as I recall). The flow temp is usually...

Look, I have learned from it. In fact I learned from the advice given freely here a year ago and as a result the chap that is now looking after this boiler for me fixed the system, such that we've not seen an F.75 fault once in the past year. That problem is fixed, completely and 100% fixed...

To reiterate, again. The F.75 first happened 4 weeks after the boiler was installed. The pressure sensor was removed, the filter behind it was checked for dirt and a new pressure sensor was fitted, The fault persisted. The system was repeatedly checked, cleaned, pressure sensors...

Yes, something I found out afterwards, at the same time that I concluded that this installer wasn't exactly honest in telling me a few other things, either. Mind you, I'm glad I fitted the TRVs, as they do allow a fair bit of control flexibility, especially when it comes to keeping the...

I note you're in Salisbury. We used a firm in Salisbury to fit our Vaillant combi. They weren't that cheap at £2600 to remove an old wall mounted boiler, remove the DHW cylinder, power flush the system and fit a new EcoTec 831. They insisted that TRVs be fitted to all the rads (claiming it...

You may be right, and I certainly have little faith in the original installers, knowing what I know now. They certainly never touched the bypass setting and didn't check the expansion vessel pressure, plus their advice was to leave all the LSVs wide open and rely on the TRVs to balance the...

Good advice, I'm sure, but in this case I believe I need to get in there when I fit the new PCB (but am happy to be told otherwise). I'd appreciate being corrected if I've got the PCB install process wrong, but I believe the procedure is: 1. Disconnect the mains. 2. Open the case...

To be fair to the chap that looks after this boiler now, that's pretty much what he's said right from the off. I suspect that fact that they are so reliable is one reason why fixing this has taken so long; it seems that a genuine F.75 fault (i.e. one caused for the reason that Vaillant made...

No, that's the whole point. Thanks to advice from here I got our current repair chap to fit the F.75 kit last year and finally, after a several winters of having the boiler shut down after every particularly cold night, it has worked fine for a whole winter. The "sticking in CH" problem...

I can understand that the most common reason for this problem is a blockage that stops the pressure sensor seeing the pump kick. For a year, and around a dozen call outs, our installer worked on this basis. He replaced the pressure sensor (the original advice being that the orange one fitted...

Absolutely definitely not any blockage either in the narrow opening to the pressure sensor or in the space behind the pressure sensor in the block. The hoses were clean inside, too (I still have one of them that was removed when the F.75 kit was fitted). This fault developed within 4 weeks...

With the benefit of hindsight I think I should have opted for weather compensation, but at the time we were spending so much money on getting the new boiler, additional wall and loft insulation and new high performance double glazing that I was looking to try and keep costs down. I tried...

Accepted, but in our case we massively increased the insulation in the house at the same time as changing the boiler, so found that we could get the house warm enough with a much lower flow temperature than before. In effect our rads are now over sized for the heating requirement by a fair bit...

Knowing what I know now I'd disagree with the installers advice, too! I didn't pay a lot of attention to the power flush, but they did reverse the flow direction at least once, I think. They hooked the big tank and pump up to the flow and return pipes on the wall, where the boiler fits, and...