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Just get a glass one they are better and make sure it has adjustment for out of square wall.

If you can't work out what the specification is on the relay to get a replacement then you will need a new pcb, End of.

Its a Potterton HE30 he told you.

It could be an unsupported pipe somewhere else in the house. If you turn the tap off slowly and it doesn't bang then you need to find where it is doing it. water hammer transmits for a good number of metres from source.

Remove water from pipe, get a 22mm coupling, using a junior hacksaw cut the end of fitting down 15mm in length half way across its diameter, then cut just less then half of that 15mm piece off, flux the pipe and the inside curve of fitting and then solder the half moon piece of fitting onto the...

When you can hear water it is usually because it is flowing to fast and causing turbulence on bends, OR, there is air in it, small bubbles usually.

It is the three port valve that needs replacing, It may only need a new head, which means no plumbing, but it would be good if you afford to change the whole valve to a new 3 port Honeywell valve IMO they are the best motorised valves, and easiest to maintain.

On the first floor it would be easier to run the pipe work under the floor through joists with holes drilled for the plastic pipe. On the ground floor I would not choose plastic since it can be chewed by mice, It does happen. If using copper then notch but fit pipe clips to a piece of batten...

I have had a private supply like this in the past, although ours was high enough that it didn't need a pump. When our tank stopped filling I turned the water off removed the ball valve and it was blocked with bits of a frog. When I asked about this contamination of the water I was told that...

You need 1 1/4" waste pipe and the trap needs to be fitted the sink waste, a bottle trap would work well, then an elbow to take it down to the waste with another elbow to join to existing waste. You may need a coupling as well.

You also have motorised valve or two. One of those may be giving the pump the wrong info. Expense or not you need to get it sorted.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-22mm-pressure-reducing-valve/68966 This is a 22mm one but you can get 15mm as well.

This is an open flued appliance that is being talked about.

I will only comment on the recharging of the vessel. You do know that has to be done while the system is completely de pressurised by turning of water supply and draining until no pressure at all?

Phone the gas safe people and tell them what you just wrote here and the name of the gas fitter and they will make him decommission it and you should get your money back. Do it officially that is why we pay so much to be registered so that the customer always has a comeback to cover themselves...

Replace the 13amp fuse with a 3 amp 1st, then get another 102E5 they still are available so it is a straight swap. It failed because it developed a fault and the fuse did nothing to protect it or anything else, very bad whoever did it.

Make sure it is from under the floor rather than above. Any pets, does it smell? If no one owns up to it, remove carpet and see if the wood is wetter than the carpet. If it is the you need to find the joists and cut the board on the joist line to access the leak underneath which maybe a pipe...

I have heard of this before and the only way it could be cured was to replace the whole immersion heater. That cured it, the noisy one was faulty and the shop that supplied it replaced it.

I think you would be better off getting someone to do it for you if you can't work out how. Explaining it is not easy.

As long as you can still get the flue kit for that boiler you can get the flue to exit a n adjacent wall, you cannot leave the boiler working while extension work commences. Your 1st job should be turning the flue to a different wall if possible or decommission it.javascript:emoticon(':cry:')