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You're trying to find a solution to a problem which shouldn't exist. Check your blending valve is working and is set correctly, or adjust if possible.

Underfloor heating usually has its own blending valve to separate it's flow temps from the rest of the heating system.

I have an ecotec plus 438 boiler and I use the SL for both heating zones and DHW. If I remember correctly, for ebus to fire the boiler you needed to leave the boiler terminals 3+4 bridged (I dont have it bridged and the boiler only fires on the SL).

D0 and D77 are configurable independently - the D77 kwh output will only be used when the boiler is instructed into DHW mode by the Vr65. The tap symbol on the front will show and the flow temperature will be boosted to 80 degrees (or whatever is set in D78) plus limited by the max temperature...

Exactly as @notorious said.

I was part of those original threads and can confirm the VR66 works exactly as the VR65 does in mono mode. Although given the post above from scw, it seems your boiler may not require the VR65/66 to boost flow temps for HW. Whichever method you choose, you will need to clamp your CH temperature...

I have a very similar setup to notorious, except I'm using a vrc 470f with wireless outside sensor, using a VR66. I have 2 heating zones so wired my CH zone valves via a 2 pole NC contactor (about 10 quid) which is activated when nest calls for HW (and shuts the CH zone valves). I found...

An accumulator will provide roughly 50% capacity, depending on pre-charge and incoming mains pressure. So you'll have roughly 500L of usable capacity.

Great post @ScottishGasMan. I'd add to what you said about the benefit of a LLH in that you have a primary and secondary pump. The primary shunt pump only has to overcome the head required for the boiler (which in the 438s case is considerable). This means smaller domestic pumps can be used...

You need to take some measurements with a pressure guage and a weir gauge (or a calibrated bucket with stopwatch). Measure your static pressure and then measure the dynamic pressure with an open tap, whilst also measuring the flow rate. If you are getting a massive pressure drop, then upgrading...

Most likely, the ST6400C programmer is being used for both u/s and d/s, but the zones themselves are being heated independently via the room thermostats. So you are still getting independent control, you just need to use the programmable thermostats to control timings, rather than the programmer...

You want 4-6 inches of type 1 for residential. If they have just added type 1 on top, Im not sure how they intend to get the levels correct.

It won't be a comfortable conversation, but I'd get them to stop now, before they do more work which you'll have to redo (or live with) in a few years time. It's your home, so you'll have to look at it for years to come, so even if you simply accept you may have to cut your losses on what's...

Appreciate the offer, nonetheless :)

I'm in SE London. Thanks for this suggestion. Even though, I had been regularly checking the TRV's - very time consuming with 30+ radiators, it does look like one of them was still weeping a small amount of water occasionally. It does seem to be only during cool down this happens and not every...

Do you think it'd find such a small leak? I've seen guys use them and it's usually quite difficult to distinguish between ambient heat - esp if we're talking tiny drips (although happy to be corrected).

Definitely pipework buried in walls and floor. However, not sure I'd ever know of such a small leak there. Any ideas? There are AAV's but I've not seen any signs of water. It is possible residual air is escaping, but this has been going on for months, so not sure if that theory holds true after...

I've spent the last few months trying to track down a gradual pressure loss in my CH and it's getting beyond frustrating. Initially, I was losing 0.1-0.2 bar every day. What I've done so far: 1. Checked every radiator valve - found a leak on one which has now been fixed. 2. Checked all...

You've already been told multiple times it's unlawful for you to do so. You've also said you're going to do it anyway. Instead of trying to get validation on a public forum, why don't you just quietly get on with it and hope that no-one notices? Not sure what you're expecting people here to...

28mm primaries for the first 5m or so. That's how the original installation was done and I've subsequently been told many times its a good thing and recommended. The pump arrangement is very simple. The primary pump is controlled by the boiler with overrun. The secondary is on the 3 MVs SL.