Search results

I would agree - you ought to be able just to push down (hard) on each tab and pull out the wire, do one tab at a time.

....or stick a piece of duck tape across the back .

Sounds very much the same as the one that I fitted and only managed to wire up finally this week! In similar situations previously I have disconnected and relocated the connector block, but it was too much of a struggle with this one and really nowhere else to put it anyway :-( I wonder if any...

Thanks for the advice. I tested again with the main switch off and got nothing at all this time, so I'm happy with that. Obviously one of those 'strange readings', it's just that I've not encountered it before and I wanted to check before I put the floor back down again.

Background:- the electrical supply to my house is TT with an earth rod at the premises. The consumer unit itself has rewireable fuses. At one location on the 5A circuit of 1.0mm cable for the downstairs lights there was an old round bakelite-type JB to split the cable into two spurs - one to go...

To be clear, I would certainly keep the outer sheath for the flex through the wall until it had passed through the rubber grommet supplied to fit the cut-out in the back of the fitting. I was just thinking of stripping a length of it off within the 16x16mm plastic trunking above the switch, but...

I am replacing the light fitting in my porch. The 1.0mm T&E cable goes out of the back of the fitting, through the wall into the hall, down inside about 9" of plastic trunking, and into the 16mm pattress box holding the switch. The new fitting (LED with PIR etc) was clearly designed by someone...

There is a light on the outside of my house controlled by a switch in the hall. The light fitting is old and needs replacing, which brings up a couple of questions. 1. There is a 1.0mm T&E cable from the switch which goes out through a hole in the outside (cavity) wall directly into the back of...

Thanks!

The lights on my stairs are controlled by pair of switches - one at top, one at bottom - connected by 3core&earth for 2-way switching. As part of some refurbishment work I have relocated the upstairs switch and now need to reroute the 3&E cable (actually, I'm going to disconnect the old cable...

At least you are aware of the issue and trying to deal with it. One of my neighbours had a large shed at the bottom of his garden which was only about 1 metre from the boundary with my property and also that of the house behind him. When the roof - originally flat(ish) - deteriorated badly, he...

Not yet...that'll be another job in due course :-) So happy to have 'with' and 'without' comments, thanks.

There are a number of 230V LED downlights in my kitchen, part of which is below my bathroom (but on the side opposite from the bath). I want to add two more to the circuit, but this time they will be directly below the bath. Given that the downlights will be below the bathroom floor, as far as...

The manufacturer's instructions state to drill a 5mm drain hole :-)

I've bought a couple (to see which size is better for my needs) of IP55 enclosures (British General brand) in order to be able mount the transformer for my 12V garden light outside, albeit with the 230V feed coming from a socket indoors. What puzzle me is that instructions specify drilling out...

Thanks for the advice. Space constraints suggest that the IP55 enclosure may have to be mounted with the long axis vertical/ That's not a problem except that the 'bottom' end only has one M20 knock-out for the two cables coming up from below. My thought therefore is to fit a female M20 conduit...

>>>you could increase the cable diameter by over sleeving a section with heat shrink a couple or more times.... I have done that sort of thing before, but with a cable that was much bigger OD but not quite enough for a M20. Thanks for the link to CEF - maybe a good compromise will be a couple...

I need to feed a couple of small diameter cables (one 230V, the other 12V) into an IP55 enclosure. The cables ODs are too small for M20 glands, but M12 glands would do. Problem is that I can't find any IP55 enclosures of the right size that have anything smaller than M20 knock-outs and I don't...

I have taken up a part of my kitchen floor this week in readiness for moving a radiator and in doing so I came across part of the cable to the cooker control switch. Now it would appear that, at some date in the past, the cooker was moved form one side of the kitchen to the other, where it was...

My garden lights have 12V 5W halogen bulbs. Is there any reason why a LED DC-output driver would not support those? Currently there are 10 lights with a 50W AC output transformer, but I could always remove one or two if necessary.