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Hi all, the certificate will be emailed within the next 28 days. It is a new install and I assume that is the sign off to confirm with building regs.

Hi, I don't know, all he said the reading is high but it is still a pass, I guess over time that this can worsen so he suggested a earth rod for the garden room. Sorry I was talking about the garden room regarding the internal wall. I can either run from the pipe bonding (the garden room has a...

Hello all, I just had my garden room certificated by an electrician. He said the earth reading is high but it passed but he advised to install an earth rod, I did ask before the installation if an earth rod would be needed but was told the house earth is enough I should have insisted on an...

Hi, in my view it does not worth doing. Firstly you will be for ever cleaning the filter if you fit it to an existing system unless you get it flushed. Secondly you probably got an old boiler with large heat exchanger holes, they don't mind a bit of dirt. If you fit a new boiler get your system...

Just an update, I had a new water main fitted in 25mm. This gets split into 2 one for the house and one to the Garden Room. I now have 3 Bar static pressure and 2.8 bar dynamic pressure on the outside tap. Without changing the house plumbing (all 15mm) I can now flush the toilet whilst somebody...

Looking good, I would sand them if they stand up, alternatively you could use a countersink before you put the screws in.

You could cut the OSB on a slide angle so it meets the wall, or just caulk the gap or just leave the gap, it will not be an issue. My roof also got a fall but I don't remember what i did :)

I hope you don't run any underfloor heating in the concrete :) Only issue you have is expansion, I would just leave a small 2-3mm gap between the ply sheets, also the 18mm ply will not give you much hold for the hidden screws. Do you get screws small enought for this?

Good question. My guess because you can only heat water to 100deg and it starts boiling, it also expands with heating and it would probably need refilling every so often.

Here mine from the top.

It does not need to be flat, the metal trim will hold it well in place and cover it. if you fit ply on the wall you got the problem the the metal trim does not go far enough in the brick and water will track down the wall, blow the ply and might leak. just follow the videos. It is a good system...

I wouldn't fit ply to the brick wall, bond the rubber straight on the brick wall and install the metal flashing.

Just had a look at the video, it makes sense, the first layer stops water going under from the side the second one stops it going in from the pipe side. I guess if you do it in one you ask a lot from the tape. Probably still ok to do it in one but better save than sorry.

Yes you can just use the tape, no point adding additional layers.

You can even use that tape instead of a boot, you can also buy it by the meter and you can use it to repair any cuts rubber to rubber. I'm not sure if it can be used with led. It might worth dropping rubber4roof an email to see what they suggest. But also as cdbe has said you might be able to...

You just need one of these for each side: https://www.rubber4roofs.co.uk/external-corner-patch and some primer.

You can't fold the ends. You have to cut the rubber and use the flexi flashing in the video. Below is my roof. I would be more concerned with all the drain pipes. The more detail you have the more complicated is rubber. Have you looked at fiberglass?

You have got enough room so i would not use foam backed plasterboard. i would use the normal loft insulation if you don't use it for storage, over and between. The normal loft insulation is cheaper, better at sound insulation and better with heat.

Have you got a picture of the area you are talking about? The wall flashing trim is fine

Be careful with the sledge, you might get chips flying around and breaking your glass door. Make sure you cover everything up very well.