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It was an Operator Error - I had it set to 25 degrees! Now down to a comfortable 19 degrees and am very impressed at just how quick and efficient my central heating system is :-)

I recently lost my Honeywell programmer - I had no idea which model it was - but I replaced it with the CM927. I first googled to check that my existing relay box that it talked to was compatible (it is a R6660D - I had to carefully take front cover off to find the model number). I also...

I thought I would post in case it helps anyone else in the future. I've posted a couple of times on our on-going heating problem - basically the radiators would only get warm (very occasionally they would get hot). The controller was still calling for heat and the relay light was on, the...

The controller is wall mounted in the hall - the coldest part of the house. Heating has been on for the past 4 hours and I have set it for a desired temperature of 25 degrees (which it will never achieve) So far we have achieved and stuck at 18 degrees. All the radiators are only warm, apart...

D_Hailsham, thank you so much for your reply and taking the time to address each issue - I think I have a better understanding of it now. Really really appreciated. I had to replace the Honeywell controller as during the summer the original which was free standing rather than fixed to the...

Thanks for the reply. The wiring has not been changed. But I lost the wireless Honeywell controller and replaced it with the Honeywell CM927 which is also wireless. As it was supposed to be compatible with the model of relay box we have, we did not replace the relay box with the one that came...

Hi, we have a Greenstar Utility 18/25 oil boiler which we believe is a fully pumped heating system. We have an unvented cylinder upstairs (think this is hot water only?) There is a pump in the airing cupboard. The heating comes on and off ok but the boiler does not seem to stay on for more...

Hi John, thanks for replying. It is fairly clear water that is coming out of the radiator - there is a hissing noise in the background when water is coming out of the rad. We have to keep topping up system when excessively bleeding so yes new water is being introduced. It's just this one rad...

Hi, ongoing heating issues although getting better! All rads are now getting piping hot except one - its the one we have always had issues with before but eventually after lots of bleeding it usually heats up and is then fine. We have taken pints and pints of water from the radiator over...

It's a puzzle! Husband spent hours the other night bleeding rads. Eventually they all got quite hot. But next day we are back to warm rads with heating on full! There is some air and water coming out when we bleed at the boiler. Problem is if we persevere with bleeding at boiler, boiler gets...

So the heat exchanger is only getting warm - so thinking it could be the thermostat. Is this something we can replace ourselves - husband is an electrician - or is it time to call out Worcester? Grateful for any advice. Thanks.

Thanks for explaining. It makes much more sense now. We'll see how hot heat exchanger gets and go from there. I'll update with progress reports but thanks so much for taking the time to help. Really appreciated.

Boiler still turning itself off when rads only warm and temp only 15 degrees with flame showing. I didn't consider the thermostat could be faulty! Could air in the boiler or rads be causing this issue? I would like to rule that out if possible.

Sorry Ian, just re-read your post. I think you meant controller on actual boiler. That was set at 5 so have now turned it to max (6) and i'll see what happens.

Hi Ian, thanks for the reply. I put it on manual this morning and turned it up to maximum (35 degrees). I think the rads possibly got a little warmer but still not very hot, as they used to be. I've had it set at that all day. Controller currently reading 15.5 degrees :-(

Hi everyone We are having a problem with our heating. I'm not sure if its an air in the system or new controller issue....or something completely different. The two changes to the system since it was turned off in the summer (when it worked fine) is the replacement of a leaking pressure...

Hi Tony, I think the 33mm overhang will be unacceptable. I'm pretty sure the catnic will have to go in order to allow overhang into cavity. I will speak to architect tomorrow. Thanks very much for your help, it is really appreciated.

Hi Tony, thanks for the reply. I wont be able to get the overhang equal each side as there is a catnic lintel alongside the UB thereby preventing us from moving the UB over so that it overhangs 16.5mm into the cavity and 16.5mm into the room. Someone has mentioned we could have used a Z lintel...

Hi, I'm new to the forum and would really appreciate some advice. We are building our extension ourselves, due to cost - please excuse any non technical terms - I am learning as we go! We have just installed padstones for a UB and have come across an issue. Our walls are 100mm concrete...