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Unless you did it with an airtight box or a service void, you probably made the problem worse by installing downlighters, increasing air permeability. They are magnificent little chimneys. Cheap, less effective, more error prone way: insulate internally as @CJRatch said (and ask yourself what...

Ok, on their website they didn't list any spares so I assumed there wasn't any. Will try phoning.

I think I have an old version of this tap: http://www.bristan.com/epages/Bristan.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Bristan/Products/%22N%20SNK%20EF%20C%22 The taps say "1901" on them but it's a slightly different shape. I would guess the tap is at least five years old, possibly a lot more. Is "1901"...

The CWI should be cut originally to allow the closers to be added. See http://www.quinn-therm.com/wallinsulation/cavity-walls.cfm . I suppose it might be possible to retrofit. TBH all this should be designed in from the start, including window details... Thermal bridging is a form of thermal...

One example is to preferably use compriband between frame and wall. Surface must be clean and dry. Foam can be used if it contracts (Soudal Flexifoam et al). This is especially important with uPVC. Best of all an understanding of air tightness. They should really ask you where the air barrier is...

There shouldn't be a bridge at the windows, at least not via the supports, because you return the insulation onto the frames. Plywood is most often used to support the windows.

Yes, wicking through the insulation (also rendering the insulation useless, as well as the damp effects).

No, assuming you are not on an exposed site you can do full fill, with batts anyway. In fact there's some good evidence that it works better, because otherwise you get convection in the cavity (especially with an insulant as shallow as 50mm). Remember lots of BR inspectors sometime need...

It is not twice as better in "laboratory" conductivity terms. The lambda of Rockwool is 0.037 W/mK, the lambda of quinn-therm is 0.022. The lambda of generic mineral wool can be up to 0.044, so that would mean Quinn-therm would be exactly twice as better if you happened to choose one of those...

Yes, unless you want a cold house :D

The metal bar that connects two door knobs, in this setup.

The use of Quinn-lite probably explains it - they have lower conductivity than standard block.

Perhaps someone else can point out where I am wrong, but according to http://www.quinn-therm.com/wallinsulation/timbersteel-walls.cfm that will give you U=0.3ish which isn't even meeting building regs, which is itself worse-allowable practice. Might depend on your blockwork. Should be aiming...

Ask them what they use to seal between the frame and the wall and how they deal with open cavities. How is it fixed? What products are used? Whatever they say just note it down, you don't have to come up with a spectacular piece of insight on the spot. Then research it. Make it clear that's...

Define "better"!? In pure conductivity terms, 50mm Quinntherm will perform slightly worse than 100mm mineral wool. But that's not all you have to consider. Also ease of installation (insulation is very sensitive to quality of installation). How it reacts if it gets wet (I hope not but neither...

Yeah, someone else suggested that offline. I don't have that equipment unfortunately. The spindles arrived today, they fit perfectly!

2G is double glazing, 3G is triple glazing. You should be able to ask for the Window Energy Rating which gives a Uw and also a solar gain figure which might be important if you have a lot of glazing and a properly insulated house. Installation, ask others and try to see work. Ask exactly how...

It depends what your goals are I suppose. Comfort, financial, environmental etc etc. As a back of the envelope calculation, we have 62m² of glazing in our house. Compare a Uw of 0.7 against what I'd consider a common Uw for a "normal" window of 1.4 at about 2200 degree days and that's £150...

Didn't you prove my point? First layer, heat loss was 1500W. Add a layer, heat loss became 750W. 1500/750 is 2. Hence, half. Add a third layer, (this is twice as thick again) again it halves to 375W. Double the insulation, halve the heat loss. I assume you don't disagree with that? It's...

Apologies, I thought because he asked about the joist spacing he was intending to put it in there. Regarding cost/benefit, it depends on the benefits you are trying to optimise for. If it's financial saving, given the lifetime of mineral wool of say 20 years plus 400mm will pay back. It also...