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OP, "sorting the flashing" would not solve your "water ingress". I doubt It would even help all that much. The bonding gutter issue cannot be put aside because it runs into the position where the back gutter should be. FWIW: experience tells me that patching up, so to speak, roof leaks, any kind...

Poster #10, If the angle of the ladder is changed then the angle of the treads is also changed. Angling treads on a loft ladder with no rails & next to a stairwell is dangerous. Setting the ladder stiles on a scrap of wood is circus clownish, & might be even more dangerous.

OP, The new pic shows that the chimney stack stump would best be removed, and the roof made good. However, the stack appears to straddle the party wall so the neighbour would have to be involved. It also seems that a Bonding Gutter has been used at the roof join, and then smothered in mortar -...

OP, As Poster #2 - damp is coming down from the gutter/eaves/sofitt/fascia area. You could make a DIY selfie photo stick to reach out from the window for pics?

OP, More pics showing the whole chimney stack including the flaunching might help - but maybe the stack itself needs rebuilding? The flashing is wrong and the back gutter appears to have been missed out? Total re-flashing is needed. Given whats been done or not been done by whoever - then pics...

OP, Has next door complained of damp? It would help if you could positively identify which fireplace goes with which chimney pot? Some of what you say doesn't seem to match up with what I can see? A flex liner wont allow flue sweeping. All your four flues probably need sweeping. If you stand...

OP, I'm suggesting that you only remove plaster to reveal the brickwork. Fireplaces & flues left dormant need cleaning & sweeping, & sometimes require smoke testing. The hearth infill will usually be surrounded by a fender wall with wall plates on top to support the trimming joists. Any of this...

OP, Why not go wider, and higher, removing more plaster to reveal more of the chimney breast face? Then post another pic of what you've exposed. And a pic showing the chimney stack on your side? Look for a metal bar under the "arch" bricks? Is the new 4 x 2 lying on hearth infill soil?

OP, You show a stack with four pots on your side therefore there are four fireplaces - perhaps two on the ground floor, and two in FF bedrooms? Which fireplaces are blocked off, and is one still in use? The nearest cowl is a venting cowl, the next pot is open, the third is a metal gas venting...

Poster #6, FWIW: Perhaps you are mixing up the terms loft ladder stiles, and hand rails - there are no rails on the ladder in the pic.

OP, Certain kinds of CWI thats become damp will act as a bridge for moisture to cross the cavity. Blockages are often a case of slovenly brick laying where off-cuts of brick or cut away mortar squeeze are allowed to drop down the cavity, & jam up on cavity ties where it can become a bridge for...

OP, Just saying but: Why not go for an entirely new loft ladder with rails? It would be safer than adding on a section & altering tread angles. Remember its a ladder not a flight of stairs &, as above, the further you stretch the ladder development the more you flatten the angle.

OP, SBR is the usual go-to sealant. On all the pillars you should remove all rendering and angle beads back to exposed brick, & then start rendering again. It might be best to slope the stepped flats to allow water to run off?

OP, My bad, I didn't notice that you had already mentioned a cavity wall. What the pics show is damp damage. Moisture might be crossing the cavity if there are blockages or damp CWI bridging the cavity. Is the outside rendered? There's also the possibility of moisture coming down from the roof...

OP, 2. Run any kind of sander over the surfaces. Take the proud bits off. 3. Two coats of 50:50 Pva. 4. skim. 1. This is actually item number one. Now is the time to sink all elec devices and cabling in metal channels at modern heights in modern safe zones. And add sockets.

OP, Is the wall an outside wall? Is it a solid or cavity wall?

OP, Typically the old render would be hacked off back to masonry - but you say, you have only done some kind of refinishing? What kind of render mix or Brand was used? The correct corner bead can be seen but the damp penetration seems to have started at the corner bead perhaps due to the way it...

OP, I'm not happy with your calling a woman the C... word - so I'll leave this thread.

Poster #10, But we are talking about render. You first mentioned render, and I then twice replied specifically mentioning render.

Maybe, I think, it will cost far more than a "mornings work" & "£40 of mats". And possibly, say, a 6ft x 2.5ft tower hire? Two workers needed at a min. I cant tell if its involving the rear and the front roof planes but for the OP's house then typically both roof planes would be involved? Work...