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Thanks. I have a multimeter and some electricity knowledge. However, in my case, when my CH is off (through programmer) after 10pm, the lever always stays in the 'Auto' end (firmly, strong resistance to move to the 'MAN' end, as mentioned in my first message). It seems back to somewhere in...

Thanks. I believe I can remove the head and test. However, is it easier to put the head back? I am not a plumber and won't take risk not having the CH in the current weather -:)

Thanks, Oilhead. I can't see the model/maker of the valve. It looks like being made of copper - with ends marked as 'A', 'B', etc., and comes with a date '01/01/2013'. Yes, the head is removable. As mentioned earlier, it's just replaced half a year ago, due to similar symptom. How may I...

True :) Actually, I do wonder that, if it's due to the valve's sticking, how I could manage to get the lever back to 'normal' or 'correct' position by moving it back/forward?

Thanks, Stem. No, I don't have a frost thermostat. The problem occurs randomly, regardless of weather.

Thanks. It seems the whole valve has to be replaced. Does the system have to be drained to do so? 2~3 hours work?

[/url] Many thanks, Picasso, for your prompt reply and help. Do appreciate it! To be honest I watched the video before posting this message. I didn't understand well, so wrote the long message to see whether some experienced plumbers can point me the right direction, more...

Thanks. Is there an approach to verify whether the valve is sticking? I am also keen to know if my understanding above is correct about the positioning of the lever for HW only or CH/HW, so giving me a good clue.

Vaillant ecoTec Plus 624. So, something with the boiler?

hi, Realizing that my radiators were still very hot after 10pm when CH was off (from the Programmer), I checked the 3-port valve. The lever was floppy - easily back and forward. I flapped the lever from the 'Auto' and 'Man' about 10 - 15 times - then heard a sound and the lever was back to...

Related to my question above, I just noticed that the tile immediately above the big gap seems shorter (vertically, about 2mm) than the tiles on the left and right, which resulted the much bigger gap. Is it the case? And if yes, a better solution is to replace the tile?

Thank you very much, Chris and other experts who advised. Will silicone as you suggested. Just a question here. You may have noticed that the long edge/side of the bath is not actually against the wall but the tile. So, shall I try lowering the bath and then pushing the bath towards the wall...

After removing the old silicone, I noticed the gap between the bath and tile is not even. The picture attached below shows that generally the bath is tight to the wall/tile, however the gap gradually grows along the length of the bath, with a maximum gap about 3-5mm stretched about 15-20cm long...

Thanks. You meant the board that runs along the facing wall (outside)? If yes, it's installed many years ago, perhaps more than 10 years at least.

I got water leakage which damaged ceiling. Asking a friend to cut off a block of ceiling has revealed inside. Here are the pictures: //www.diynot.com/network/DavidFox/albums/ Clearly wet can be seen at the end of the joist. What could be the cause? Could the rainwater penetrate through...

Thanks. Same as this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tower-Components-A3MID-Position-Actuator/dp/B00HZKLMN2 Shall i buy one to replace? If so, just off the main power, no need to drain system, right?