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Unfortunately the MA1 actuator is not compatible with the valve body - the newer actuators have a plastic clip on the bottom which fits into a groove on the body. I'd need a compatible actuator to the one I have, or find a new one somewhere (good luck). I could swap the innards I suppose...

Results: CH on. Thermo on Max. White wire to valve 240v, Gray wire 240v. Orange wire 0v. I think that confirms that it is the actuator. When I put the valve in mid-positon. the results are the same. HW comes on. grey wire 0v and the blue wire to boiler and brown wire to pump...

It is a Drayton 3-port valve and the website says the motor and switch can be replaced separately. Going the check the white wire...but as its late...and its summer I'm in no rush. Plus my testing equipment is in my office and this problem is at home. It does seem suspicious that when I...

realize that. I have found a wiring schematic for a Y system. So I know to check the white wire from the thermo. to the zone valve, check the grey wire. and check the brown wires to the pump and boiler. BTW manually moving the valve does not kick the boiler and pump on. switches and motor...

Sounds like water hammer. Replace the bits inside the ball valve is the simplest solution. Will take all of five minutes.

I have a old style Hot water and CH system. I have the cylinder in the airing cupboard with the pump and divertor valve. The system is about 15 years old but never gave any trouble so far. I've recently noticed that the CH no longer comes on even if I turn the thermostat to max (30). I had...