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Once again, thanks for the advice fellas. Very helpful.

Ah yes. Sure. The rogue twin and earth was supplying a socket used for the washing machine. I've taken that out so all I've got to worry about now is the 10mm cooker feed. I have the twin and earth popping out halfway down the wall where the old cooker isolation switch was. It's just in line...

Not quite sure which bit has been ignored.

Very helpful. Thanks.

Thanks for the suggestions for ways to bring the cable to the surface. Ugliness is not really a problem as it's all out of sight at the back of a cupboard. And yes, AndyPRK, there will be a cooker connection point at the end of the run, the suggestions here are for bringing the buried cable out...

Thank you John. Ban All Sheds, I gracefully accept of course you have a point regarding the "unknown unknowns", however, the reasons I came onto the forum, and the questions I have asked here are not the full picture. I fully intend, and always have intended, to get all works inspected and...

Thanks for everybody's help. I think I've got a good idea what to do now. First job is to find out what the additional cable is for and, hopefully, disconnect. Then I'll put in a connection box with a blank plate where the current switch is. Run the cable in the wall to another connection...

Can I put a box with a blank plate on where the existing switch is? It's not bang in the middle of where the hob will be and is about 600mm above worktop height. I imagine it would sit somewhere to the side of the cooker hood chimney. Then run directly down the wall to another inspection...

Thanks. Exactly the sort of info I'm after. So should the cooker circuit be entirely rewired from the CU? Obviously, I want to do the minimum I have to, but if that's what it needs...

You must not leave the cables and join new ones and then plaster over, nor route the new ones as shown. http://www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:walls The link doesn't seem to work. What's the reasoning behind why it can't be configured exactly as it is now but just moving the...

It does imply this ...unless you consider I might have a 4 week crossover period between properties while I fit the new kitchen. It is true I don't have years of practical experience as a sparky but I do have the relevant training and 9 years experience as an electronic technician working...

Nope. Not yet. It was 11 o'clock last night when I got the front off the switch and discovered the additional cable. At that point, I sighed, gave up for the day, and went home.

That was my next move. To be honest, there's not a great deal it can be. There's a combi boiler in that general direction and a single socket below worktop level. Think this was used to power the washing machine. Thinking about it now, I reckon it could be going to that. All the same I...

Not entirely sure I understand the question. Perhaps it's so obvious I'm just not getting it. Do you mean is there another cooker?

Thanks for all the advice guys. My plan is to: i. remove existing box so I'm just left with the 6mm feed from the consumer unit and the unknown 6mm T&E ii. crimp and heat shrink two new 450mm lengths of 6mm T&E to both of these. iii. put both of these extension lengths in trunking which...

Because on the supply side of the existing switch there are two sets of 6mm twin and earth. If I want to relocate the switch 300mm to the right, and keep the same configuration, will I not need to connect the two cables to one side of a connector and run another cable to the new switch from the...

I'm moving a cooker switch as it's located directly above where a new hob is going. When I removed the switch I saw it has two sets of twin and earth on the supply side of the switch. Is this a common scenario? There is no electric shower or heaters. Could this be going to an old shower or...