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Further to the above... I don't like giving up so I decided to keep fiddling. I disconnected the potentiomiters at the new pcb one at a time & fired the boiler up. Did this a couple of times & so far the boiler is now performing correctly with full temperature control over c/h & dhw...

Having found that the c/h has now stopped working I decided to change pcb. Bought one from Ebay (new) the seller had a good rating so I thought this would be ok. I installed the pcb, great everything worked until water leaked over the burner! Dried everything out, could not find anywhere...

You may well be right but I have found a PCB for a good price. I will change it over & let you know the result, hopefully in a few days from now. Thanks again.

Just checked flow from hot tap & we are getting 10l/min. I am wondering about the merits of changing the PCB as this will be considerably cheaper than calling an engineer out. Any thoughts?

I think it is time to check the flow rate, I will do this & let you know the result.

I am haring what you both say & yes I have watched the flame height to assess the gas valve modulation. I can soon check the flow rate if that helps. We do have fairly naff water pressure but that has been consistent for years whereas the water temp. Issue is more recent. Just to confirm I...

I do not have a thermometer to check the difference. What I can say is that regardless of how the temperature is set the hot water coming out of the tap seems to get hotter until it reaches scalding temp. This seems odd as the burner can be seen to change with the temp. control knob. It must...

Thanks Dan but I'm not quite sure how that helps me!

Yes, goes up & down with the hot water potentiometer

Hi this is my first post so greetings to all. I have a Raven-heat csi 85t, :( it is getting old but has provided many years of good service. The problem is that there is no control over the hot water temperature. Once the hot tap is turned on the temperature of the water increases until it...