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Yes, each FCU will limit the current in the spur wire to, at most, 13A (largest fuse size). At that point I believe you're safe to use 1.5mm T&E for the spur cable. (I've, pedantically, changed your quote to say "an", not "and")

Does the toilet cistern have a separate overflow pipe? Comparatively old toilets usually had a side inlet on 1 side and the overflow in the corresponding position on the other so you could arrange the inlet to be whichever side suited you best. If it's easy to take off the cistern lid, look...

I take it you mean the light controlled by terminals COM1 and L11 is working correctly. If so, I'd suggest swapping the long brown that's in COM2 with the one that's in L22. Also, it looks to me that it's a metal faceplate so you must earth it using the earth terminal to the right.

My guess is that it's a Buchan Trap (I believe there are other names / manufacturers). The idea is that normally all the water passes through the U bend, so yes there should always be standing water. There should be a removable plug in the upper pipe, if the U bend blocks and water builds up...

If you've got the Flow Temp set to 55C then the boiler will burn sufficient gas to heat the returned water (at whatever temp it's at) to 55C, so when the water is only going through 2 rads the boiler will burn less gas as the returning water will be at a, relatively, high temp. I assume you...

My guess is that that turning the switch left to right is more likely to work.

I needn't have worried, I was concerned that the fins would try to push the plug outwards, but a good firm push was all that was needed for the plug to stay right in.

I want to cap off a 110mm pipe using a McAlpine DC4-BL (link): https://mcalpineplumbing.com/plastic-chrome-fittings/drain-connectors-boss-connectors-roof-flashing/dc4-bl-drain-connector-blank-cap Judging by this drawing (link)...

My understanding is that if you've got only 1 toilet then it mustn't be an electric (edit: aka macerator) one.

We can all see your email address, it's entirely up to you but you might want to edit your account details to give yourself a Username.

Are you saying you've changed from the white to the black? Are you saying that you're only bothered about the switch on the left which is used as a 2-way switch? Final query (from me), are you sure that on the right hand switch that the 2 red wires, which come from outside, haven't been...

This (link): https://www.electricpoint.com/hager-sollysta-cooker-control-unit-50a-white-wmcc50.html would use a double backbox but might need a deep one. I'm sure other manufacturers do similar things.

Just a possibility, once upon a time there was just 1 "13A" cable and 1 daisy chain cable but 3 lights, so chop daisy chain cable in 2 and use both ends.

Do you mean that when you turn on a hot tap then it takes (best part of) a minute for hot water to appear?

It's supposed to keep leaves out of the gutter.

Apologies for living down to my moniker (again). I believe Eric means 40ms.

There's no need to buy one just use an offcut of wire (hopefully you've got some lying around) and sleeve it suitably.

I don't believe that's correct. If I've understood properly then it should be a case of moving the black wire from L1 to L2. But do be very careful as ETAF recommends.

The BG 817 spacers are 10mm thick.