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It's rubbish - the rashers don't stay on the foil nor do they get sizzling hot.

Viessmann follow the German engineering guideline VDI2035 which says that inhibitor is not needed if the pH, conductivity and hardness of the water are maintained in specified ranges and that there is no external source of oxygen allowed to enter the system. In an ideal world a sealed system...

1. make sure motorised valve to downstairs zone is latched open. 2. fully close TRVs and lockshields on both rads. 3. open TRV on rad1 4. bleed out a pint or 2 of water. 5. close TRV on rad1 and open lockshield on rad1 6. bleed out a pint or 2 of water 7. repeat for rad2 with rad1s valves...

Before anything else you could try flipping the pump from setting 1 to 3 and back again repeatedly, might give enough oomph to budge the airlock. As said those ballofixs will likely start weeping at some point. If you must isolate central heating use the lever ones with gland nuts that can at...

You'd do better replacing the planks its sat on with a nice thick bit of dense memory foam. Really does help reduce the vibration noise.

The black water is probably indicative of corrosion that happened but has now stopped. Your PRV problems and rads off for decorating would explain that. However theres a possibility the pH and conductance of your system water is outside the ideal range and is contributing to ongoing corrosion...

Good chance that is imperial pipework. decades old bathtaps - great for revealing your latent Tourettes Syndrome...

It doesnt take much magnetite at all to turn the water jet black. You need to run the water out of the filter into a clear container and let it stand for an hour. See how much magnetite settles out of the water. Then shake the container and see how black it goes again. Its probably very fine...

Possibly have pulled some air into the hot side of the pump/pipework. shockwaves from tap turning off compress the air, making the water move and triggering the pump flow sensors. might also explain why hot didnt run for a while too. Turn the pump off at the mains and run hot through each...

The decent cleaners usually have a dash of inhibitor in so they dont corrode your rads whilst cleaning them. But then again most of them are brownish liquids - so you'd never know if they were rusting your rads either. Sneaky huh?

Turn off TRV. Fully open lockshield valve Bleed 2 pints out of radiator into bucket This will confirm water flows through the pipe connected to the Lockshield Now turn on TRV fully Turn off lockshield fully Bleed another 2 pints out of radiator again. This confirms water flows through the pipe...

You've got a combined vent and feed. Do as in picasso's drawing above but without the blue line. The red line is 22mm and should connect at the tank with combined vent and feed as in your own drawing. HW Cylinder should be last Tee into the return before boiler.

You need to rip that lot out and start over. Yorkshire fittings are easy once you've done one or two. Clean, flux, apply heat until you see the solder rings appear - that's it. Virtually impossible to overheat. Don't quench the joint and it will be spot on. Practise with a few test goes first...

None of these filters catch all the magnetite on first pass. Also the neodymium used by certain brands become significantly less magnetic at temperatures above 50 Celsius. So they may be holding onto some magnetite flakes but as the return temp rises they let go of some of it. So it gets...