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Spec looks good and viable. Thanks Doesn't mention MDF - any reason why it would not work?

Hi I'm making some permanent units out of 25mm MDF from a supplier who primes/undercoats from the factory. Of course, I'll be making cuts etc so have some primer and undercoat, and will gloss over I may spend time dowling most the joins but I'll be stuck with the odd screw I need to put in...

Thanks for advice So what products would you suggest?

Searching before asking did bring up the Everbuild caulk so good to hear its still OK. So that doesn't crack/move too much? Thats what was putting me off caulk and wondering if the PU stuff (stixall type) is now the done thing. I do love stixall but only used it for sticking :)

Will need to paint a few things, skirting and shelves (probably gloss white) and some other bits (maybe matt white emulsion to match ceiling). Last glossing we did we bought good gloss, but can't recall what, but it now looks a bit old and yellow in places. I'm good DIYer but poor (and lazy)...

Hi Not really "decorated" anything for 10 years and tech has moved on! Lounge has a few wooden bits around a bay window, skirting and some shelves. So will want to do some minor gap filling and painting over. Not a huge amount so cost not a concern, but what is the best now? Still caulk? or...

Video added to the gallery above Found quite a few ways in. Think its beyond me to do safely at height. :(

More pics from a look on the roof today. Sadly my dream of seeing something obvious was crushed. There are some vertical gaps at edge of the lead but thats how its done I think, and the membrane does go over the saddle so that looks OK. Rear gully was clear and pointing looks good. Not looked...

Thats logical. But I'd have expected to see it in my pic above? Will find out and see what I see in teh next couple of days. If membrane doesn't overlap I guess I'll have to install a sheet of lead or something to go under the membrane and over the existing led (saddle?)...!

Perfect But where does/should the roofing membrane go? Over the sloping lip at the rear I assume? Rather than under? My pic *appears* to show some "top edge" of the lead suggesting the membrane goes under (which feels wrong) Won't know till I look in a day or two

Any pics or pointers to how this should done before the tiles are replaced would be fantastic :)

Chimney, with sloping roof to the back of it. Lead saddle around. Tiles overlap rear of saddle. Under tiles is waterproof membrane. Where does this go? - Over the lead (such that water on the membrane runs onto the lead and off. - Under the lead (such that water on the membrane goes under...

Internally, overnight, you can see the water in both rear corners. I can't believe both corners have failed as guessing water is getting in somewhere and tracking. Can't see the rear without scaffolding, so thats arriving end of week The loft floor is concrete in that area (surprising to...

Yes, See https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/leaking-chimney-pointing-flashing-sealant.643138/ Not sure what needs doing till I get up there (scaffolding later this week) - just planning ahead. Pics on that thread show the other chimney I did 2y ago and can't remember what I did!

Hi 1933s house. Tall ish chimney. Probably needs repointing and flaunching done. Its normal mortar and concrete stone brickwork. Want something strong and weatherproof obviously :) Is it usual 3:1 builders sand/cement; or 4:1 sharp sand/cement? Or.....? Thanks :)

Hi I know impossible without pics, but if I can explain whats what it'd be nice to hear alternatives to my ideas 1933 house, chimney with 2 pots/channels, one capped, one in use for log burner (new 25y one in 2013). Roof was "reroofed" in 2013, so new battens/membrain/leadwork and same tiles...

The height isn't anything I can do anything about, I may have to exceed the lipping and re-edge. The width issue doors is an awkward bespoke setup, but it should be possible to narrow the casing by 15-20mm without it being a problem, and then get a 711w door trimmed correctly. Could change...

Thanks - idea stored :)

My DIY design and build understairs cupboard and pull outs. Made on 3 base pull outs, with the "units" being separate and screwed on but with spacers to make perfect. Front edge fixed at finish to get perfect spacing. Floor etc completed after pics. Most of the wood was 18mm MFC that I...

I made my units "sit" on a frame (screwed) that pulled out on runners, and then able to add spacers as necessary to get fine adjustment. However my front on the pull out was square and not important, just used to get perfect level (via the spacers). The final "triangle" was screwed to this as...