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My Trouble Andy is getting a plumber, it seems nobody near me wants the work. I gave up after 4 no shows. I might do as you suggested after we have the 2nd loo installed.

How it stands today, I just need to attach the hot water supply (currently no isolator form the boiler), then box in the pipes and the ruined wall at the back. I did buy the proper 90deg bends but would have needed the joist to be 5" to the right, just not enough room to work with. We will be...

Thanks Hugh, maybe I could install a little viewing window at the bottom of the boxing to keep an eye on it! :sick: I think I'll bodge it as best I can, I'll update when it's done, probably next week. Thanks for your advise.

Thanks again Hugh. For connection to the stack, I was thinking of using a 92.5d bend and cutting the outlet at an angle so when I push it into the stack (with some fins added) the top of the outlet will hit the back of the stack while the bottom will be short to allow the flow. Perhaps drill...

Thank you Nige and Hugh. Currently there is a standard 90 degree pan connector in there which was indeed pushed too far in at first and caused a block. I (very very carefully) pulled it out bit by bit until the blockage was released and it's been OK since. There's only the vent above and below...

Hi all, is this asbestos? I attempted to replace my toilet some months ago but needed to move the soil pipe back towards the wall. As it didn't rotate\swivel as I expected, I decided to cut what I thought was a cast iron connector in order to insert plastic. However, using a reciprocating saw it...

Thanks John, that would be the preferred option but not really possible at the moment, if at all. It's an old 50's "mushroom" prefab, the 1st floor exterior walls are angled and tiled.

Hi All, I could do with a little help. I had the intention of installing a close coupled toilet, this would require moving the soil outlet back towards the wall. I thought I might be able to just rotate the join and add some Sikaflex over the joint but I don't think this will work now. In the...

Wow, thanks a lot for the information Lucid. I knew that when the arm is extended it would increase the weight but I don't know how to calculate the increase, as my TV is relatively light (4.5 kg) I was hoping to get away with it. I will use my mkI knuckle to find the stud as you have instructed...

Hello and Happy New Year to all. I have exactly the same issue but I have no idea where the studs are and the 2 top holes in my bracket are side by side 30mm apart. My TV is <5kg. Can I hang it directly from the plaster board using these?

It's just plastic box stuff from the sheds, fixed onto the wall, not buried in the plaster. It doesn't go into the ceiling or floor either. Why I didn't do this earlier I don't know:

Thanks John, that makes sense. The isolating switch is currently wall mounted in the airing cupboard, I intend to change this to a ceiling mounted pull cord switch, this should give me enough slack to move the cable out of the insulation if it is there and clamp it to the wall if it isn't already.

Thanks Gary, is this absolutely necessary?

Yes my fuddled explanation of the situation hasn't helped John, I'll check it out properly. However, it has been this way for 10 years and the only issue I've had is the tripping out MCB. I did change the shower a few years ago but as far as I remember it was like for like. I changed it due to...

Thanks for the voltage clarification, but I'm still confused about the cable. 8.5kw Shower-6mm cable-18"plastic conduit-through ceiling-5 metre loft (assume buried in insulation as I can't easily get to it)-through ceiling-2 metre plastic conduit-through floor-1 metre plastic conduit-through...

Ah, now hang on, more info, I'm learning the terminology which will probably help a bit! In the CU there is the main red switch followed by one RCD 80A/30mA/240v with 3 MCB's 32/240, 16/240 and 6/240. Then there is a 2nd RCD 80A/100mA/230v with 2MCB's 40/240 (unused and off) and 32/240...

OK, let me clarify as much as I can. I thought MCB was referring to the consumer unit (master consumer board). So, in my consumer unit (where the fuses used to be) I have trip switches I'm assuming these are RCDs? The shower is connected to the consumer unit to a 32A trip switch via 6mm cable...

Yes, sorry the RCD is 32A. Thanks Winston, so why would he say I need a 10mm? What would I need 10mm for?