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Having investigated further Exedon is 100% correct and the actual kit I needed was indeed the Ideal flat plate as that is pretty much what my original disintegrated one looked like i.e just a wide flat plate and large donut. Should I need to revisit this I will use the correct one but current...

hmmm - Do I track down an Ideal flat plate or do I stick with what I have? Firstly I guess I need to see if the toilet is Ideal as well - though no labels so not sure how I find that out. Having thought about it the flat plate could make sense as that would push up against the larger donut...

Sorry I wasn't clear - the coupling kit I bought was indeed the correct one with a flat plate etc - see picture - and I purchased the larger donut separately. my second picture of the other kit with 2 donuts was more to point out that I didn't realise there were kits that contained the 2 donuts...

In my case and the reason it was a bit weird is that the donut that came with the coupling kit fits perfectly onto the syphon nut but its actually smaller than hole in the pan so it has nothing to push against - hence the second larger donut - which was also used in the original coupling kit but...

Final update - I ended up using using both donuts and, after reassembly and testing, all looks good. It just didnt look right to have the cistern silmply resting on the larger donut, especially with the metal plat not being flat - so the smaller donut fitted nicely on th nut and then was a good...

Thanks old buffer and chrisJP for the input/instructions - I have fitted quite a few toilets in my time and not really come across this type with the metal plate and no holes - though I am mainly fitting new ones rather than repairing old ones.. I think I have worked out what I need by going to...

First time for me but I have an old toilet (25 years) which need a syphon replacement. It all looked standard from the bottom with the usual 2 screws either side of the 2 inch exit hole with donut etc but when I tried to undo the butterfly nuts, the bolt was so rusted it snapped on one side and...

Thanks for the feedback daniel/john. I must admit my concern is also that the steam from shower will continue to simply go up and hit the ceiling rather than find its way out via the fan. I will get into the loft again and see if I have any alternatives aside from a roof vent tile. The...

Thanks Steve and it sounds like being far from the shower is not neccesarily the issue. The palce i'm thinking off is opposite the door and offset by 0.5m so hopefully that will be ok for air inlet. hopefully my attempt at drawing a picture makes sense below height of ceiling in shower area is...

I have a standard 2x2x2m bathroom where the roof overhangs and results in the wall facing side sloping downwards. This, combined with a chimmney, means the only spot i have on the outside wall is at the opposite end to the shower and at 1.5m height. Given that most of my mold/moisture is...

Thanks for the input guys and I am fine with handling electrics. It seems a straightforward job and I'll ensure there is no live leccy when i do it...

Hi, I have a setup with a boiler in the garage and a honeywell T4360 frost stat just above it. I need to add a pipestat to avoid the heating being on all night in the winter so i bought a matching honeywell L641B pipestat. my frost stat has 2 red wires attached (as per picture). My pipestat...

mikely, thanks again and you are probably right in that i need both the pipestat and a better roomstat. Your comment about the frost-stat is interesting in that i just assumed that the reason the rads were red hot all night was due to the room stat being set to 25 degrees and my hallway...

mikely, thanks for actually answering my query in a clear and concise manner as I was struggling to understand my position given all the other comments. I will checkout my current thermostat model & wiring and also take a look at the CM907. You are correct in that I have a frost-stat in the...

hmm - can't say i know the difference between gravity fed or fully pumped but if you say mine is fully pumped then i won't argue.. question is 'does that matter' with regards to changing the hallway stat to a better/variable temp model..

stem, My system is definatly a traditional gravity fed (10 year old 4 bed house) and i have a hot water tank in the airing cupboard with a motorised valve and T junction 22m pipes for routing between CH/HW/etc. I'm assuming that when my timer switch is set to CH on and HW off then the...

stem, that is exactly the setup i have and you explanation makes sense. i.e have main timer set to 'always on' and then let programmable thermostat do the rest. I'm interested in your comment that i will need the hot water to also be 'always' on if i go down this road. As my timer has...

I have a traditional gravity fed central heating system with boiler in garage and the usual programmable timer in the utility room plus a simple room thermostat in the hall way. The timer has the standard 2 'heating on off' settings for morning and evening use. Now - given the freezing cold...