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Thanks for the confirmation, that's what I expected and believed. In fact I laughed, and said "that's an amusing way of getting out of it then!" However I wasn't in any position to argue, wanting the job to be done, and not being in a position to disagree with someone who, as mentioned before...

That does appear suitable. Dependent on a number of factors, including the construction of the conservatory and the output of the system (and limitations of supply pipework as mentioned above), you'll never be able to "comfort heat" such a structure in the winter - the most you can likely...

Installer queried it with the business owner - 40 odd years in the plumbing trade - and the reply that came back was: "You would only use maintenance free connections if the rest of the installation was to 17th edition". Discuss.

Or cover it over with a bit of architrave.

As I understand it, and I'll happily stand corrected, most conservatory structures should not, under building regs, have a radiator connected in to the main house system. That said, many do anyway! However If you did install one you'd be better off with a taller, vertical column radiator...

At least if you get a cat, you won't need to install a door for it. :whistle:

Might not even see it, depending on the format of the curtains.

Yes, you will most likely have to chisel recesses. If only to get the brackets to stick out horizontally rather than being on a wonk caused by the curvature. If you fix through the coving you might be able to get away with long screws and plugs that go through into the solid plaster or brick of...

The cylinder needs to be slightly turned before you can remove it, otherwise the nib on the cam will stick out slightly outside of the Euro footprint. If you don't have a working key then ....

The materials and methods used suggest to me a build date some time after the 1950s? Is anything structural supported by that blockwork?

You could glue and screw (or bolt) plywood sheet to each side. It's very strong like that. Or you could bolt on a suitable piece of flat steel plate.

Presumably you can't get joists in via the ceiling below?

I can't comprehend any method of sealing, finishing and proofing the raw chipboard edge that would ever last for very long in this situation before it started to deteriorate.

There's a big difference between basic but well finished, done on a budget; and your suggestion of just having two bits of worktop at different levels...

I bought a Bosch multi tool in order to neatly cut out one piece of skirting. Since then I've used it hundreds of times and I wouldn't be without it - worth every penny!

Due to removal of the worktop over the sink now being tricky because of nine pipes going through it to and from the boiler, I'd rather avoid replacement of the existing if possible. And I'm not sure if you can fit cheap (presumably laminate) worktop around a Belfast sink due to the issues of...

Apparently renters are a bit more discerning these days than I am myself unfortunately! And the better it is in terms of finish, the higher you can charge (within what's reasonable for the market of course). I did consider another piece of hardwood worktop of a similar light colour but it's...

At least you won't have to worry about the extra weight of half a tonne or so of water then!

Is there a tank in the airing cupboard and does it have its own supporting structure, or is it also putting a load onto the same joists?

Thanks. Having had a read and checked on the legalities, it would seem that the minimum requirement would be one detector on the landing, of ionisation type, and one detector in the lounge, which could be an ionising version but might be best as optical given the risk of smouldering electrical...