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That is correct. It is the hot water off terminal which connects to the grey wire on the 3 port valve terminal 8 and the satisfied on the cylinder stat terminal 7.

You need a wire to connect number 4 on the nest to number 9 in your wiring centre. But you shouldn't be using single insulated wires like you have. You should use a short piece of 3 core flex for the live and neutral and a piece of 4 core for the switch wires.

You need to plug that light blue plug back in that you have removed. Apart from that the nest looks to be wired correctly.

That is the insert it's stuck in the fitting.

Yes it really is that simple.

You need to swap the wire that is in terminal 2 to terminal 1

That all looks correct.

If you're not getting any voltage across the brown and blue wires then the problem is with the controls and not the valve.

No you would have to change the backplate. The connections would all be the same except the black wire in termination 2 would go to terminal 3 on the new Hive backplate.

:p I wasn't sure whether he was swapping the Hive for a Nest or the other way round. I was going to say that if he was swapping the Hive to a Nest then the link should be between L and 2 not 1. But then I changed my mind in case he was doing it the other way round.

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Looking at the wiring diagram on the back of the clock, I would say that the wire that you have in 2 should be in 1.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/talon-15mm-pipe-collar-white-10-pack/19706?ref=SFAppShare

Has it always done this? If yes then check that there is no link in the terminals marked RT24. If there is then remove it and that should cure the issue.

The black and white wires in the boiler are the wrong way round. If the cover is fixed on the boiler, then the easiest way to solve your problem is to swap over the red and yellow wires on the Hive receiver.

It's from the trissic period.:ROFLMAO: I.e. before the jurassic.

There are lost of different sized towel radiators to choose from. That was just an example for you to look at. They do them in 150 and 250 watt versions too. It would not be heating at that power all the time as they have a thermostat built into them, so would cut off once up to temperature.

Instead of using a standard radiator you could get a towel radiator with an electric element in it for use in summer. Something like this:- https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-towel-radiator-heating-element-white-400w/245tf?ref=SFAppShare

You're welcome:unsure:

Have you set the selector switch on the boiler to water only? Because if you have it kills the power to terminal 2.