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Thank you flame. I think i might run a single piece of conduit straight from the consumer unit around the top of the wall and then tee off for lighting, switch and sockets with the 1.5 and 2.5 inside.

thats a valid point EFLI. ADS is based on the combined value after all.

Thats my view on it too PBC :)

Agreed. Um, i guess its quick to cleat up on the wall/joists but then more time to terminate compared to conduit with singles so yeah bit of a fine line their IMO

it's friday mate (y)

A professional would use an earth fault loop impedance tester to confirm this. Although you would like to think if the earth cable is present - all is OK, unfortunately without testing it cannot be confirmed. It's a quick job to test and replace so if it doubt, yes. Plastic switches do not...

Thanks and sorry for not being clearer in the poll! I was referring to the cabling within the garage itself from the consumer unit to the sockets and light switch and fittings. I think it would John yes. The plastic i've used for outside lighting from TLC is pretty good and will offer a fair...

ha ha! I like it. Classic! (y)

just on a job at the moment and everyone has their own opinion. My choice would be plastic conduit, someone else's steel for extra strength (which isn't need imo) and someone else said SWA because its quicker to cable up as not many connections to faff about with. Grasshopper?

Hi, Nothing stopping you swapping them over to a metal finish as long as you have an earth on your lighting circuit. If you do, make sure you isolate the circuit first and take a photo of the existing connection and replace like for like to avoid any problems. This is assuming you are going to...

What's your preference? :)

Difficult to replace in terms of price alone, or are there other factors such as availability and flexibility?

you can always use a multiplier in the case of TT ;)

Many thanks for clearing that up (y). Most useful last few posts for me. Love this forum. Everyday a school day. Thanks again. :)

i stand corrected! i am sure (it was a while ago!) that we did an experiment in college where the motor was pulling more current when we simulated a less than perfect connection but will bow down to the knowledge of the forum :)

you can work out how the sockets are connected although this will not help you on how the cable physically runs between them. you would need to isolate the supply, remove both legs from the breaker and then disconnect every socket and check for continuity until your sketch is complete. lot of...

On the basis that a loose connection/high resistance results in voltage drop. lower voltage means the load will draw more current.

that would depend on how the cable has been routed.

could be a loose connection which will draw more current than intended. if you are competent, isolate the supply (pull the fuse carrier) and check the circuit is dead and then check all the connections inside the light fitting and switch are ok

i agree. i was just trying to educate the OP what would be carried out if they called a pro in.