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thank you both, all valuable info, also sounds expensive :(, well, will research it all but have now lost all hope of having something green in the "lawn area" this year....new builds, eh ? cannot even build a lawn proper

chaps and gals - any idea what do to with this ****e ? cover with top soil, then turf roll it ? dig it out and start from scratch ? It is a "new build" 2016, kind of was green during the summer after topping it up with both grass seeds and clover but this nice weather of last 6 months worked...

there is a 3rd motorized valve by the hot water cylinder too So just to confirm, there is no way I can get the second channel working using the current backplate wiring? Siemens was two channel only, zone valves controlled by thermostats in this set up. Is the ericmack's suggestion viable...

I was thinking about looping 1 and 3 on the back plate so that I am able to turn CH on from the app for either channel, but this is just testing the app and the hub, and all heating will be on then anyway (assuming both wired stats set to max) The separe zone temp control will still not be...

of course 1 - CH (was originally in 4 for Siemens) 2 - HW (was orinally in 3) in the box, 3rd wire from the left bottom (marked 6) is the CH one coming from the backplate Think 1st left bottom and top right are the ones coming from the thermostats and then back to the valves for separate...

hi Purchased Drayton Wiser kit3 to replace Siemens RWB29 in the house with HW cylinder, and two CH zones controlled by wired therms atm. The house was build in 2015 so guessing the wiring should be done up to the latest standards (?) I have replaced the control unit with Wiser hub, and HW is...

anything's possible, just looked at the ceiling roses and one (the one closer to the switch) has two brown/black cables joined together (assuming one set in and one out), and the other one just incoming brown/black (plus ground of course for both). So not even red/black set .... possibly...

yes, red and ground , using mutimeter abt 242.2V on both reds that are now separated and were originally together ...

ok, I understand that diagram, and think that in my case (two lights) it means that there is a cable going direct from one light to another only i.e. not going through the switch at all, correct? Also, if there is a loop should not breaking the loop mean that only one of the reds is still Live...

thanks all for replies! bugger indeed !! Yes, I assumed that the two reds that were originally together were going to and controlling each light separately hence a "simple" idea to just split them out ;( So you think that the loop is actually feeding another light switch somewhere? quite...

hi all, I am trying to upgrade a1 gang light switch that controls two ceiling lights in the living room to a 2 gang switch to be able to control each light separately. At the moment the connection in the socket is as follows: - 3 ground cables joined together - 3 black (neutral?) cables joined...

cheers guys, sounds like a real pain in the neck to get a new tap connected then ....

Hi, Does anyone know how to remove this type of connection as on the attached picture please? This is a bathroom tap connection, and the top copper pipe is a direct connection to the tap. Want to replace the tap and that connection to add a shut off valve and a flexible pipe but not sure how to...