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Ah ok. Thanks for confirming.

The old cylinder didn’t have an immersion heater.

I recently had a new indirect unvented cylinder installed (to replace my old vented cylinder). I believe the new cylinder includes a backup immersion heater. However, it doesn't look like the installer has wired it up, so I have no way to switch it on. Is it standard (or acceptable) practice...

Does that pic check out ok?

Thanks John. No sign of a NRV. Here's a pic (nothing hidden under lagging):

Anyone able to advise if this is normal practice? Thanks

Just had an invented cylinder installed. It appears that instead of making use of the Balanced Cold on the PRV, my plumber has instead added a T piece to the PRV outlet. So that it directly feeds both the cylinder and all taps & showers etc. So it still seems balanced, but I’m just wondering if...

You’re probably right, and yeh, thinking about future too when we may add 2nd shower. Upgrading to 22mm could be tricky, so will see how the 15mm pipe copes first. I’m still not clear about the advantages of going for the 3 bar Joules cylinder over the 3.5 bar PremierPlus though.

Been researching hot water cylinders. Had to discount OSO as their's seem wider than most, and won't fit through my loft hatch. Tempted to go for a Joule, but I don't understand why they operate at only 3 bar, when the PremierPlus is at 3.5 bar? Happy to pay a little more for a little more...

Thanks Madrab. That's what I'd presumed, and was about to ask. It was actually my installer who initially suggested the Premier Plus, and from looking into it, I liked the fact that it's PRV is set to 3.5 bar, rather than 3 like most others seem to be. But I'm now starting to wonder if it's not...

Ok, I've managed to take some measurements from the 15mm pipe currently feeding my cold water tank in the loft, that will end up feeding the new unvented cylinder: Static pressure: 3.8 bar Dynamic pressure (with kitchen tap on): 3.5 bar Flow rate: ~27 L/min Flow rate (with kitchen tap on): ~25...

Thanks. Replacing the 15mm with 22mm would probably require signaficant work in our ensuite and bathroom, so unlikely to do that ATM. Presume putting it up the outside of the house is a silly idea?? :) Is it worth attempting to take some pressure and flow rate measurements from the supply into...

Thanks. From what I can tell, the pipes that head off to the shower are 28mm, but the mains supply in the house is only 15mm. Is this likely to significantly affect things? Looks like it's about 10 meters of 15mm pipe from the stopcock to cylinder location, with about 6 elbow joints.

Just took some more measurements: Outside, static: 4.2 bar Outside, dynamic, with cold water tank filling: 4.0 bar Outside, dynamic, with kitchen tap on (~16L/min): 4.0 bar Outside, dynamic, with kitchen tap on and cold water tank filling: 3.6 bar

Good tips, thanks. My pressure measurement was static.

Ah ok. Not come across a Joule Cyclone before. Why do you recommend it over the Heatrae Premier? Thanks, that's reassuring. I'm finding some brands of shower are very open about flow rates at different pressures (Bristan), but others not so.

It's a NewTeam (Showerforce) 201-T and has the pump built in.

I am considering having my vented hot water cylinder upgraded to an unvented cylinder. Therefore, I will also need to have our power shower replaced with a mixer shower. However, I only wish to do this if the shower performance is going to be the same or better. How do I ensure this will be...

Ok, thanks for confirming Jack. The programmer also has a boost button which should still work, so I can just make sure to use that one!

Hmm, spoke too soon. Discovered an unintended side effect: If the HW is OFF but the Boost button on the cylinder thermostat is pressed (and the cylinder temp is below set-point), the boiler will fire up and try to heat to cylinder, but it seems that instead of heating the cylinder, it's heating...