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Good place to start as it sounds like a pump issue. worth checking the pressure in the expansion vessel also. with no pressure in the system the vessel should be charged at 1bar and when you depress the shrader valve pin no water should spurt out.

Keep your stop taps and valves fully open... just crank back you hot taps slightly to reduce the flow rate slightly and that will increase your hot water temperature

Not a bad effort on all... I find that having a wet cloth on me and wiping away the dripping excess flux during the heating up helps as the main thing to remember is the solder will stick to the flux so when the flux runs or builds up during the blow torch heat... wipe it away with a damp cloth...

From the description it sounds like you have separate zone valves for your heating and hot water systems. if your hot water is working fine then the pump is excluded from the issue. there may be an issue with the heating zone valve. it is a strange situation you've got though if the flow pipes...

And the flow pipes to all the rads are hot but rads are cold?

OK so is you're hot water cylinder hot and hot water is working?

Hmm... I've just noticed you have said there is a motorised valve on the return pipe at the boiler?

What boiler is it?

Hi Darren. it does sound like the expansion vessel is faulty... maybe burst and full of water or flat and needs repressurised. if you run the hot water and the pressure stays the same and then run the heating and the pressure gauge rises it's the expansion vessel. but from experience of your...

Most combi boilers at max will give you between a 30-40 degrees rise from the cold water incoming main temperature at the specified flow rate by the manufacturer which at a guess your boiler will chuck out around 12 litres a min max. so slowing down the flow rate at the tap will slow down the...