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Certainly looks like leylandii. As said, best removed. It's fairly shallow-rooted, fortunately.

Well your middle pic shows the water level right up to the overflow, so if the water's not draining out through that where has it been going?

If both floats are under water (as it seems in the pics), then the float valves are faulty and water will overflow somewhere when your stop-cock is turned on.

Can you post a recording of the sound? Might give someone here a clue.

Tie up the ball valve on the F&E tank in the loft temporarily, in case the valve is passing slightly and generating a vibration. Are there any drips from the overflow of that tank?

Sounds like a loose wire connection in the light fitting or switch. Isolate the lighting circuit, check it is isolated, get your screwdriver out and ensure all screws are tight in the fitting and switch..

Looks like an old gas appliance tap on that pipe stub.

Is the pump motor of that model designed for variable frequency use?

If you trace the pipe coming down from the loft tank to the cold tank, hopefully that will have a stop/service tap in it. If not, you could put a bung in the loft tank exit, or shut off the feed to the loft tank and drain it.

Why not use some perforated strip steel, like the piece shown in your photo, to strap the timbers together?

To replace the fill valve you would need access to the underside of the cistern, unless the valve is a type which enables the in-cistern part to be removed by some twist-and-lift mechanism (which I doubt; but I'm no plumber and I'm not familiar with the fill valve type shown).

Then it looks as though the fill valve is at fault and the water level rises until it reaches the overflow 'window' in the flush valve.

Why not? There are seals available for screw/nail heads.

Do you have any surgical tape in your medicine cabinet? It's microporous, so should provide a key for plastering over.

If the water isn't overflowing then presumably the flush valve is leaking. Post a well-focussed pic of the inside of the cistern and someone here will likely recognise the flush valve brand and advise on its treatment/replacement.

Flush valve leaking; or water level too high and internal overflow operating.

Microwave cooker; but it's not suitable for all foodstuffs.

When the PRD is in normal use it should be blocked. The blocking part gets blown out when a safe pressure is exceeded. Presumably the blocking part (ball, disk, whatever) was located in the tube attachment at the base of the tank. [Edit] In your shower the PRD is likely to be the same as the one...

Sounds like the pressure relief device has blown. "A Pressure Relief Device (PRD) is a safety feature installed in Electric Showers. If heated water fails to escape through the shower head (due to a blockage such as a kinked hose or blocked shower head), the PRD will blow, thereby allowing the...

A good dose of penetrating oil would get them moving; then perhaps some waterproof grease for longer term treatment? But replacement with galvanised hinges would be better.