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Thanks crank, that certainly looks like the part. Finding them online however is proving to be difficult, the doors must be > 15 years old. I'll take the piece off this weekend to see if I can identify the manufacturer, may have to resort to fashioning a piece from a D profile trim and a a...

Evening all, I've some quite old upvc french doors in a bay which over the years started to drop. I had a local company out to take a look who advised as the doors couldn't be adjusted for them to trim down the keep post (sorry don't know what its called). Long story short they butchered the...

Fair point, a CU is a bit overkill, I'll take that approach - thanks.

I considered that and if that was the case then brown out of the RCD is connected to the line of the FCU so it would be reversed at that point. I may just replace the entire set up in the shed with a small garage unit and terminate the SWA properly with the correct gland, incidentally is a...

Same type of gland at the house end - plastic going into a external socket knockout - no banjo. The SWA WAS originally clipped to the fence if that changes anything in the need to earth the armour (less chance of a spade hitting it etc, but I assume not and its just bad practice?) Shed was...

Yeah, I don't understand it, the correct glands are cheap as chips

Thanks for the (quick) replies. My mistake, 13A FCU I was given a printed and PDF copy titled Electrical Installation Certificate, it has a Certificate / serial number on it which when I tried to validate online, failed, I called the NICEIC and they have no record of him working on my...

Hi all, I've recently had to disconnect the electric running to my shed whilst it was replaced. The set up to the shed is a 2.5mm SWA cable spurred from an outside socket which is fed from a 16A radial in the house (RCD protected). The SWA is terminated in the shed via another RCD, on to a...

I thought it would be something as simple as this, and a must of the drain holes, I believe they're already marked in the box Thanks

I'm concerned about the IP rating of course, safety being critical

If this was a socket attached to the outside of the house and the supply came through a brick/cavity wall, surely the back knockout would be used in that scenario - how would that maintain its IP rating? Thanks

Are you suggesting using one bottom knockout to terminate the SWA and the another bottom knockout and gland and run down into the shed? Is there any reason why I can't use the back knockout, it seems like the simplest solution?

Agreed, surprised it wasn't altered in my rewire - I will be fusing it down to 6

I certainly could terminate inside the shed but that is not the approach i'm after as I said it doesn't look the best. Thanks

Hi, I'm planning to redo my shed electrics as I've just put in a new shed! The old set up was 2.5mm 3 core SWA (approx 6m run) fed from a outdoor socket against the house which was run to the shed (through the T&G cladding), into a RCD and fused down to 16amp to supply a light and double...