Search results

Just finished the job. I connected everything as above and it all works perfectly. The Horstmann C-Stat is a nice product. The software's well designed and the user interface is intuitive. The Z-Wave wireless connection is reliable and the wireless programmer picks up a signal anywhere in...

Given that the boiler-provided switching voltage is 18v and not 240v, then I think that should be used. So: 240v supply live from isolation switch to L on C-Stat 240v supply neutral from isolation switch to N on C-Stat Remove link wire between L and terminal 2 (common) Brown conductor on the...

Well the yellow wire is on the T&E to the C7 and thus de-energised and safe anyway. I'll have a crack at thos again tomorrow.

Totally not your bad. In the first post, I did write "I did measure voltages at the programmer and boiler ends but the results didn't help my understanding." and I should have expanded on that because I did not measure 240v across any of the terminals. So. Is this what we have: 240v supply...

The measurements were taken with the ring main on and the boiler switched on but not fired-up on either HW or CH. The difference I think is that the C7 is battery powered (even though the instructions says that it required a 240v supply on a 3A fuse), while the C-Stat is not battery powered...

I connected the old C7 in place of the new receiver and it works fine, so although the C7 installation instructions say that it requires a 240v supply, it clearly does not. I propose to take a T&E 240v supply from the isolating switch to N and L of the receiver and then connect black from the...

In the last picture in my previous post you can see a white rectangular junction box. Inside are three Wago connectors, splicing together a 240v mains supply T&E to the white flex which disappears into the wall. I tested the supply into the box and it was 240v. I tested again the other white...

So today I undertook this work but the receiver did not power-up. I checked the wiring and it was as per the instructions. I extended the white flex with triple & earth, with the grey conductor used as neutral and sleeved blue. The receiver end: Wiring under the boiler with junction box...

Thanks. Yes, six earths in one screw terminal is not great. I considered connecting them together with a 6-way Wago block with one earth to the earthing point but decided against it. All earth conductors passed the "tug test" FWIW.

Thank you, No, not enough slack in the cable to mount so I'll have to extend those. I have some 3-way Wago connectors but I might buy some splice connectors and house them in a gel box (I think).

Ahhhh I think I may have mislead you but omitting vital information. Because the existing C7 is in the way of furniture, I intend to remove it entirely, disconnect the T&E from the boiler end and leave the de-energised cable in place. The new C-Stat 11-ZW receiver would be installed at the...

Mental. How did you work that out :) Great - I'll follow your directions and report back.

In this thread you helped me to wire a Horstmann C7 to my Worcester 24CDi. That setup has been working well since then but now I must switch to a wireless thermostat because the programmer is now in the way of a book case. I have purchased a Horstman C-Stat 11-ZW. As with the C7, I am...

All done. Stud modified to accommodate a new back box and a (knock-off) 8-way connector fitted to sort out those neutrals. T&E stripped-back a little further to tidy up the earths and their sleeving. The flex is shown in the photos but has since been disconnected and the insulated end...

Just tried it and 3x 42w halogen and 3x 7w LED lamps all dim perfectly. So the simplest answer was correct: faulty dimmer module. I just assumed I'd cocked-up the wiring circuit, although I couldn't identify a fault. Not all is to waste though, as much has been learnt and I will apply the...

Good idea. I tested it with 3x 42w halogen lamps but with the same result. The lamp fittings are E27 and 42w is the highest power lamp I have but 126w should have been enough.

I should have mentioned that I tried a tungsten lamp in one of the three fittings, but the result was the same. That may not be a valid test, so I will try tungsten lamps in all three fittings, just to be sure. The BG dimmer is of the leading-edge type and the datasheet says that it's...

My mistake on the terminology then. As long as I have something which states the work is compliant then I'll be satisfied. Got one of those :D Should be easy to cut out a small section. Originally I used a screw-type terminal block but replaced it with the Wago. Can't believe I'm watching...

Thank you for all of the replies. A local electrician agreed to test and inspect prior to me doing any of this work. After the wiring had been installed into the stud paritions and clipped to walls, he inspected the work so far and gave his approval and agreed to return to test when the work...

BG triple dimmer switch. First dimmer controls five lamps via three cables (two of the lamps are daisy-chained to another). Second dimmer controls three lamps, all daisy-chained). Third dimmer's wired but with nothing on the end yet. Started with this: Ended with this: So. Into L2 of...