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The issue with the increase in pressure when the heating is on will be related to the expansion vessel. It’s either burst, needs recharged or the connecting pipe or flex is choked with grit.

The boiler might have a pump over run built into the electronics. Is there a an automatic bypass on the external pipework to facilitate a pump over run? I had wee look at the instructions after reading Ian’s post and as he states,there’s only a fan over run. It does state in the instruction...

I very much doubt you’ll get replacement heads for those valves. I’m sure they are Danfoss. You could try their website but I think you’ll need to renew the valves too.

Jeezo, Ian is correct, you do like to google. I don’t really need or want a history lesson in how combi boilers were developed. Those links aren’t even relevant to the statement you’ve highlighted. It’s not hot news that the government want to ban gas boilers from new builds and distric heating...

Only you and the Mrs in the house plus you have a couple of electric showers. Combi all day long. Your hot water demand isn’t much is it unless youse both like to take a bath everyday. If your boiler was to break down, having an electric shower is a pretty good back up. You can always boil a...

Take the burner out and have a look. If it hasn’t been serviced for years then maybe it’s clogged with soot. I wouldn’t guess it’s any particular part. Spend the money and get an expert in.

Disconnect the prv pipe at the bottom of the boiler if you can't find where it terminates. If it's loosing pressure here you'll soon know as this pipe should be dry inside. Disconnect it when the boilers off and cold.

Hi AGAS. Don't apologise, your entitled to your opinion. I based my statement on my experience. Maybe they're more reliable these days as I never shut them anymore to save the hassle. I had to change a return isolator on a potterton promax that was weeping from the ball last week which would be...

Hw on will be number 3 on the timer backplate, it will be number 7 on your diagram.

Isolator valves on some filters and a lot of boilers are prone to leaking when closed/opened. You've landed lucky if they're not leaking after doing a repair.

Sorry, I'm just guessing. I wouldn't advise you to replace anything, as like I stated before it could be gas related, so you need to be qualified. A red light on that boiler would indicate a fault relating to failed ignition.

Maybe a water leak somewhere inside the boiler. Did the plumber chap take the casing off and have a look inside? Not all plumbers are good with finding faults inside boilers. Find a boiler break down engineer instead.

Your welcome. You did ask for any ideas! Do you have a multi meter or a set of test lamps? How did you come to the conclusion that the timer was the fault? Maybe it's the pump? Or perhaps the pcb? Or maybe even the water pressure switch? There's no point in throwing parts into the boiler...

Maybe better calling in an expert instead of trying to guess when you haven got a clue!