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I‘m fairly certain there‘s a black neutral connected to the old thermostat.

You could also use a 45 mm back box and a blanking plate. Then it won‘t need to be maintenance-free.

If you’re going to open the ceiling get a maintenance-free junction box and get rid of all those loose connectors. Just run a short bit of T&E from the JB to the light.

Yes, I interpreted that as the old light to be replaced but it does look a lot like the one in post #12. Looks like bullet connectors, I'd have expected simple crimps with a clear plastic cap. They're a bit like a bootlace ferrule, just with one end closed. All wires are pushed into the other...

Did you look at the picture? We‘re talking about one light with six leads exiting a single canopy. I‘d have expected the manufacturer to crimp these six neutrals and lives together with a short fly lead each to be honest.

I suppose you could indeed disconnect the brown wire but I'd turn off one of the RCDs (doesn't matter which one) before doing it to be safe. Then turn the RCD back on and try turning the circuit breaker back on. I really don't expect this to help though, much more likely to be a wiring issue...

OP seems to be located in Belgium. #5 and #7 are called RCDs, they trip if there‘s current leaking to earth. Depending on where you are in Belgium they‘re called differentiel or aardlekschakelar. The one on the right trips at 300 mA of leakage, the one on the left at 30. You spotted correctly...

The existing rose only has L, N and E connected, nothing to go wrong there. Those Wagos and choc block are where it gets interesting. They shouldn‘t just be stuffed into the ceiling like that but if the new light only has a mounting bracket and cover it doesn’t really make a difference whether...

If there is a neutral and any current flowing through it (but not through the RCD) the RCD will trip. Otherwise it won‘t, with or without a neutral. Absolutely the only thing that relies on a neutral connection to function is the test button on most RCDs but there are still some that have the...

Same here. Nuisance tripping of a 100 mA RCD from the 80s, very sporadic. Two electricians tested the RCD and the installation, everything measured perfectly fine. Insulation resistance of two circuits was suspiciously low at around 8 MΩ but still well within limits and far above what would trip...

There's a special kind of current-sensing relay that automatically prioritises the shower. It's called a load shedding relay. These are pretty common in places with smaller supplies and beefy electric showers (Germany has plenty of 18-24 kW 3-phase showers in homes, that's a bit tight if your...

At least some of the visible signs are in English, I'd guess India or thereabouts.

Since the square/rectangular back boxes have become a de-facto standard I don’t think any sane manufacturer would sell sockets that require special back boxes. That means flush sockets are extremely likely to stay as they are. Of course some manufacturer could design a more compact...

L goes to L One of the blues from N goes to N, the other to N1 NO goes to L1 It probably doesn’t matter which blue wire goes where but I‘d try to see which one is part of a cable with the brown that‘s connected to L. This blue wire goes to N. The short link goes into the bin, it’s already...

The old thermostat probably has another unused relay contact that could be connected to a terminal labelled NC. Depending on the state of the thermostat, the relay connects COM either to the NO or the NC terminal. The NC would be used for controlling an air conditioner. Since the relay contact...

In most civilised parts of the world class 0 appliances (single insulation inside metal enclosures, no earth) have been banned for several decades, in some countries for almost an entire century. So everything we get should be class I (earthed), II (double-insulated) or III (SELV). Along with...

Use a maintenance-free junction box.

If this model needs two wires to work (like my Testboy) the signal should disappear at the break.

The switch closer to the camera seems to be a double-pole switch but the connections don’t line up with that.

Put both T&Es into the „In“ terminals and the flex into the „Out“. Better not to mix solid and stranded under one screw.