Search results

What about the screw at around 1 o‘clock? Could that be an earth screw? Either way you‘d need to check for earth continuity.

Some Schuko and French plugs have the earth terminal closer to the strain relief, otherwise you‘re meant to leave the earth longer than L and N for that exact reason.

Is it a bayonet or Edison socket? Edison ones love to do that when the centre contact gets slightly bent.

There’s a huge resistor right next to the brown spot, so that might be normal heat dissipation.

For an off-grid system you need a fairly substantially oversized panel array and battery, which makes the whole setup a lot more expensive. Other than that you can certainly have a setup like that. You could even have two inverters and an automatic transfer switch for a dedicated circuit that...

Most balcony kits only have grid-tie inverters and don’t come with batteries I think, the ones with batteries are more expensive.

Yes, replacing that bit of cable with 4 mm2 should do. I‘d probably put the kitchen sockets onto a 20 A MCB, then the 2.5 mm2 is fine and you get more power than with an FCU.

Socket: https://www.confort-electrique.fr/prise-standard-italienne-2pt-1016a-legrand-mosaic-p-7601.html Grid frame: https://www.confort-electrique.fr/support-vis-etroit-poste-module-p-7818.html Cover...

To make matters even more confusing, there’s three near-identical plugs with very different electrical ratings. The Euro plug is rated 2.5 A, the French version 6 A and the Italian even 10 A. That’s why you get the odd hairdryer with a plug like that, usually the Italian variety. I just...

Probably the smallest option would be a Legrand Mosaic 1 module back box. Quite expensive though.

A socket tester, an extension lead and a multimeter in Ohm mode go a long way though. Use the socket tester to confirm a socket close to the light is earthed, turn off the electrics and measure between the earth of the extension lead and the earth you want to check.

Also probably more trustworthy than a used MCB in unknown condition. Dried grease can get quite tough.

They made it safe alright. If the power can’t be turned on the circuit is perfectly safe. Just not particularly useful

Not sure about modern Diesel engines but older ones ran quite happily on up to 25% petrol. In fact, back in the early 80s adding petrol was the only known way to keep the Diesel from crystallising below 5C. I definitely had a moment like that. Ceiling light stopped working. Investigation showed...

Of course there‘s also the option of using Wago 2273-2401 inline connectors and heatshrink tubing. They‘re explicitly designed for maintenance-free repairs in walls.

The UK is the only country I‘m aware of that type tests DIN rail CUs together with the MCBs, bus bars, etc.. Everywhere else in Europe the enclosure and contents are separate. Only the devices and bus bars need to be compatible. I was once sold Eaton MCBs and RCDs together with a Hager enclosure...

It has to be both. Every switch is rated for a maximum operating voltage (and current of course).

They seem to be similar to Wago lighting connectors so they could well be.

The ones melting metal (or glass) are called furnaces too, the ones generating steam for heating homes seem to be called boilers. At least that’s what I‘ve gathered from decades of reading US books and DIY forum posts.

I‘ve been told furnaces in the US heat air while boilers heat water.