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I agree, but it's a much bigger job....

buy some suitable profiled beading and fix it to the top of the skirt. Nice mitred corner and a bit of filler and would look fine.

NFU - they quite likely have a local office where you can talk to real people about aspects of the policies. This is ours https://www.nfumutual.co.uk/agent-offices/preston/

Just do it if you are capable.

yes, exactly. I had a conversation with my BC man once we'd stripped back to bare brick, and our consensus was internally insulate using insulated PB incorporating a VCL to create as near an air-tight barrier as possible, and then rely on the well ventilated cavity to deal with any interstitial...

An old man living basically in one room and 115 years of coal fires every day. I think when considering breathable lime plaster you need to consider whether you are trying to allow the wall to "breathe" in to the room, or the room air to "breathe" through in to the wall......

It does, and a cavity, but when we inherited it, the internal walls were so wet you could almost literally wring water out of the plaster. The remedies have not included lime plaster......we could start another discussion about using that in sealed houses with DG, blocked up flues etc....and why...

....and after 440 pages of theory, the writer of the Salford report carried out a real-world experiment and wrote in his conclusion "If I am critical, however, I do recognise the limitations of this study: it was, after all restricted to a single house of a particular type and occupation" and...

I've read it and it sets out to prove what the writer wanted to prove....except look at this from that report- "rising damp" in an early 20th century house.....around a fire place, that inevitably would have had coal fires burning for several decades. IMHO, (and as found in my own house) damp...

It's amazing isn't it that there are a zillion threads and articles out there about damp in caravans - very similar issues that people have in their homes - damp walls, damp floors, mould..... - must be jumping damp that leaps across the gap from ground to caravan!

I'll stick to my opinion, you have every right to have yours.

No not really - I've experimented myself and yes a brick in water gets wet so there is an element of truth, and maybe the next brick up the wall also gets wet through absorption, but to imagine that water creeps up a wall several feet jumping across the mortar layers...... Very difficult to...

My 2p based on my own experiences and my training in condensation control (merchant navy). Rising damp does exist to some extent, BUT with the dew point of "comfortable" room air (say 20 degrees, 60% relative humidity) being as high as 12-13 degrees, a heck of a lot of damp is actually...

wacked MOT and then concrete lintels laid over at 90 degrees to the bearers. This is what my shed supplier recommended a few years ago (they supplied and installed). No need for a concrete pad for a shed they said. They were right - it's been fine.

Shelf reinforcing with painted mild steel square section and furniture connection screws (they go right through, and the heads are slightly recessed in to the top surface). You only need two screws - one each end. The shelf bending is resisted both by the rigidity of the steel tube and by the...

Too expensive? a 1.5 m length is a fiver. Drills with a normal twist drill. It's what I do with chip shelves to resist them sagging. - timber needs to have quite a deep section to resist bending - a 1/2" or 5/8" square tube is barely noticeable, especially sprayed in a complementing colour.

Of course open unused chimneys cause damp. Stick a bucket or container outside and see how it fills up in the rain - that's how much water is going down the open chimney, As to the issue of salts read this - I 100% concur with this article...

Use 15mm or 20mm square steel tube. https://www.themetalstore.co.uk/ (they'll supply it cut to the length you require) fasten to shelf with furniture connecting bolts like these https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09VPYFPR8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Get your price installed, then go down your local trade window supplier and get a price. I think you might be surprised. I got 4 windows recently Rehau profile, around 1100 x 900 (one smaller) 3 with openers 24mm DGU soft coated argon etc. £700.

PD info is all here Page 41 https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/5d77afc8e5274a27cdb2c9e9/190910_Tech_Guide_for_publishing.pdf