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The first engineer was quite good in that respect. He mentioned filters but said he wouldn't recommened putting one on an old system only when the bolier was replaced - though perhaps he was building up for the biggy! I contacted a local engineer who quoted me for replacing the EV. I suggested...

The different engineers I've had round have all seemed similar; but this is the first time I've had a customer services department who don't understand their contractual obligations and are seemingly programmed to robotically sell unnecessary and expensive add-ons.

I have had this for a number of years. I probably don't need it but I've got it. I change every year or haggle about the price as year two invariably doesn't include a free service. This year I went with EDF. The advertise the first thing they will do is contact you and arrange an inspection...

Thanks to all for your help. My third go at this seems to have worked out ok.

Is there a recommended time interval that this needs doing? The system was flushed on installation (to get the "chunks out") but nothing since then - 2008. I runs okay with only a very slight temp differential between the top and bottom of some rads - very hot vs hot. My water (pardon the...

If I drain 7/8 litres of fluid off why does it drain from the EV first rather than the rads upstairs?

At a reasonable guess I drained 1.5/2 litres. It was quite quick to get upto 0.8bar on the compressor.

How high should I let my compressor go to get the Boiler gauge to 0bar. I was going by 0.8bar as per some instructions on here but does it need more to throw the waetr out?

I might be abusing the terminology:

I had another go at re-pressurising the EV with the system stop cock open and got it up to 0.8bar. I closed the system stop cock and took my air compressor off. I noticed that the pressure guage on the boiler (which had started a 0) was showing about 0.6bar before I added any water through the...

I've read up on TRVs and think I understand them - complicated for one with small brain such as I though.

Yes I have those everywhere - does it just inhibit the flow into the rad or is it fancier than that - can open/close dependent on temp? I've read somewhere they might not completely close the rad off.

I'm not sure where I am with that at the moment. When I re-pressurised I didn't have the stop cock open so might not have driven all the water out of the EV. It's lost a bit of pressure (gone from 1 to 0.5 bar when idle) over 10 days; but it no longer gets into the high red zone, though it's not...

It's got a valve with settings on (is that a TRV?). I'm trying to sort Expansion Vessel issues and if I can get the water pressure fixed I'll add more inhibitor - it's been re-pressurised a few times so the inhibitor's probably a little diluted now.

Everything in our house has valves - so yes it might be an issue if the system was pressurised. The towel rail's an odd one - the incoming pipe with the valve takes 20 mins longer to heat up than the other rads. The out going pipe heats up in minutes and the railseemes to heat up by...

Thanks that looks easy enough. Is there an easy way (for the beginner) of telling which is the cold water supply and which is the system inlet?

Combi - Worcester Greenstar 28i Junior and sealed (I assume).

Hi, I know nowt about how what the internals of a radiator look like but is it possible to syphon water from the top to make space for the inhibitor, rather than draining it from the bottom? It just seems easier (if possible) for around 500ml of liquid.

You're made of much sterner stuff oop north.