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I'm looking for the most robust method of screwing the newel post to the stretcher. Would it be better to drill a large pilot hole through the side of the newel post so that screw threads only grip the stretcher, thereby pulling the post closer to the stretcher? Or pilot drill through both so...

I had this problem in a flat, it was coming from the cupboard where water services rise/fall between flats. If you opened the cupboard door you could clearly hear every word the neighbour below was saying. Your neighbour might not be keeping their service cupboards closed. Also check around...

It's not actually a pit. As mentioned, the garden is on a hill and divided into terraces. The retaining walls only need to be on three sides. The fourth side will face the lower ground level of the next terrace. I will try to upload a sketch...

Oops! Let me rephrase that last bit. If I dig out a deep base and build a 3m high shed near the boundary (and surround with retaining walls) so that the top of the shed is still only 2.5m above the original ground level - would this be acceptable?

My question is similar, but regards going down instead of across: I have a property on a slight hill so the rear garden has terraced sections. This is all original from when the houses were built. On the highest terrace in the garden, if I dig out a deep base and build a 2.5m high shed near...

My front garden slopes down towards the highway. I would like to build a retaining wall and dig the garden out to create a PIC driveway. I understand that creating a non-permeable driveway greater 5²m would require planning permission. As the footprint of my car itself is over 8²m I've recently...

Thanks for the image Freddie. That means I should get at least 4mm spare, so the hinge plates won't be seen from the front of the door.

If I removed that finial then I think I'd need to remove them all to match, but it would mean a lot of money's worth of oak finials and caps wasted, and I'd need to buy new caps as the existing caps have been bored out for the finials to sit in. The caps are for chunky 115mm posts and the...

I accept the easiest way to check would be to hold them there and look at them :giggle: but these are hinges I was going to order online. I don't live there - but yes you're right the photo is of a house in Lavenham.

I'm about to fit new doors which are 35mm thick. I like the chunky appearance of some firedoor hinges which are 100mm x 76mm. Will these hinges fit a 35mm thick door - or be too big?

Do you mean something like this? (temporary propped photo) (Notes: I have another wider oak block which will match the width of the cap, it's just too thick to fit here for the photo. Also not planning to have the plinth block this tall, maybe extending no more than 12mm above the finial. The...

Yes all 3 items are not yet fixed (cap, finial, architrave). It might be plinth blocks you're thinking of. I've just replaced nearly all architrave and skirting in the hall and landing, I had actually considered using plinth blocks between architrave and skirting, and if I had then using a...

Yes it's part of a stair case but the door opens away from it into a bedroom.

I need to fit new architrave and half newel post finial to the wall (neither are fixed yet). I've done a rough cut on some architrave and it seems it will over-hang / cover the top of the finial a lot. Is this the best / right way to fit these items?

I bought the posts from one supplier, rails from another, and glass locally. Someone gave me unused Zipbolts for a landing though I couldn't understand how to put everything together. I think I've got it sorted now, had to order some "SlipFix" style Zipbolts so that the handrail could be...

I'm about to fit a single-sheet glazed balustrade with wooden handrail on the landing. I've temporarily fitted the half newel post to the wall, but can't find how to attach the handrail to the half newel. Any suggestions or links please?

The thought of gluing baking foil to a wall with generous overlaps, then covering with PIR board which has been cut so that the joints are staggered with the joints of the plasterboard being placed on top. Sounds like it could be more moisture and thermally efficient than the manufactured boards.

Very true, and polystyrene ceiling tiles can be very nasty dripping in a house fire. Though I thought we'd given up with the polystyrene idea and switched to PIR boards as in post #6. Incidentally, I've checked the fire rating for the PIR board. It's rated E (on a scale of A to F, with F being...

The manufacturer states "Non flamable" https://www.soudal.co.uk/diy/products/adhesives/bonding-and-construction-adhesives/polystyrene-adhesive