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totally agree woodyoulike, i'd run the boards along the same line as the units otherwise it might make the flooring and the room look short and squat.

You really need to use a worktop jig, which can be hired with the right equipment. To do out of square joints firstly cut the female joint as set by the jig. Put this in its final position and roughly cut to length the adjoining worktop and place it in its position but so that it sits on top...

I would definatelt say no. If you run all your joints along the same line there is the oppurtunity for the flooring to lift at that point as the joint has not been locked together with the other boards to each side.

It will also help with laying your new insulation as, assuming you are using two layers of insulation to make up the thickness they should be laid perpendicular to one another,

For what purpose?

I agree colorfil is probably your best option, available from B&Q kitchen department.

I think its safe to assume that its not dry rot, if it were you would see loads of tiny hairlike filaments creeping over the timber, if it just crumbling then i would say its will be wet rot caused by ingress of water from out side. You need to establish where this is coming in. Is it coming...

I agree with markthebuilder. Take the old p/board down and do it properly although you can use 90mm insulation, plenty on the market at varying prices,kingspan,celotex,ecotherm,extratherm etc, you will need to maintain a minimum of 50mm behind your insulation as clear ventilation under your...

I think its a bit steep JohnD, and like you said if he's worried bout being stitched up by his landlord why not just get prices for himself.

I don't think i've seen a wooden mallet in a carpenters tool box for maybe twenty years :roll: you gotta be a joiner or similar !

it doesn't really matter if they're imperial or metric, they'll do the same job whatever. I personally use the Stanley dynagrip pro chisels. I favour these over the shatterproof marples that i used to use as they have a steel plate embedded into the end of the handle so they will take a...

from my point of view I would be expecting the whole frame replaced for £250 never mind just the damaged jamb.

make sure the transition from wood to asphalt is perfectly flat other whise you have a nasty obvious lump.

Or alternatively try one of these- http://www.powertools2u.co.uk/mall/productpage.cfm/powertools2u/GBH2%2D22RE/62051 I have has bosch sds drills for years now and they have never failed me. I would definately consider an sds drill over a percussion cos there's always the chance of the one...

I have seen a similar 'mastic man' on our sites. He always carries around with him a small paint kettle in which he has several different sticks of various thickness which have been soaking in soapy water to 'repel' the silicone when he does a bead joint, must say tho I consider myself pretty...

I see this quite a bit from plasterers in refurb jobs, the way I always get around it is to rebate out the back of the archtrave with a power planer to a depth equal to the amount the plaster over hangs the linings. That way your not hacking about at the expensive pllastering you've just had nor...

thanks for that eloquent appraisal corgiman. So would you say that they get a lot of faults? How many of them can be put down to poor installation ? Bearing in mind I only have a budget of about £1200 to supply and fit what would you suggest ? Cheers Justin.

Thanks for the replies. I did get a couple of quotes, one for the ravenheat and one which was for a worcester, trouble was there was over £700 dofference in supply and fit price between the two !! I thought the price for the ravenheat fitted was a bit pricey but it has been a while since...

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Well I have finally decided to dump my Potterton Puma (great sighs from local heating engineers!!) cos it seems to have something new wrong everytime i wanna start the heating up. My friendlt plumber has suggested to me that he will fit a ravenheat CSI85 which from write ups on various sites...