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It has been a few months, so I thought I would update. After changing the coil, at first it was still tripping and having to leave it alone for a while before it would fire up again. However, that seems to have sorted itself for the most part, I am still getting the odd occasion where that...

Hi everyone, thanks again for all the replies. I replaced the burner solenoid coil, but the problem still persists. it is doing the same as always, runs ok for a day or two, locks out. Sometimes it fires back up straight away, other times it takes multiple resets., either spread out other time...

Thanks for all the replies, they have helped a lot.

Sorry, I missed this reply. I did have the solenoid replaced a few years ago, I will get a new one and see if that helps, from your explanation, it does make sense why it doesn't fire back up until it has been left alone for a few hours. The starting sequence is doing all things as you say, but...

It has the fitted alloy box, but it doesn't seem to matter if the burner cover is fitted or not.

Hi everyone I know there are quite a few threads already about this, but I can't seem to find one that matches my experience. I know my boiler is old, over 20 years since it was fitted, it was brand new, and over the years it has had almost everything replaced, but I still get lock outs very...

If possible, I would hang the SB door on the same wall separating the bathroom so that is facing the top of the stairs. I guess it depends on the space at the top of the stairs.

Rather than a corridor, I would put all the doors next to each to keep the space in the second bedroom. Sorry, not related to your question ....

I can't get my multimeter into the block because the space is too tight, I will need to take the panel off again.. but, see below.. I put that link back in when I removed the room stat wiring and nothing was working. As above, the space is too tight for the length of my multimeter pins so...

I checked where the room stat connects to the PCB and I am getting nothing. I checked between 2&6 and 3&6.

Thanks for the replies.. I haven't had chance to link the grey and brown wires, will hopefully give that a go tomorrow or the next day... working 12 hour shifts limits how much spare time I have.

My combi boiler has an internal hot water tank so there is instant hot water when called for, the boiler will often fire and run for a few minutes to keep the tank at a certain temp. That seems to be the only part of my boiler that wants to work properly at the moment though :D

Coming out of the programmer, there are 5 wires, Grey, White, Orange, Brown and Blue. The Orange and Brown are wired into the same hole of the 'chocolate' box connected to the PCB. So I need to link the Grey with the Brown on the chocolate box to check the relay? Sorry for dumb questions, I am...

It has the dual programmer, like the one in the picture. Obviously wasn't using it when I fitted the room stat, and I removed the wiring for the room stat yesterday because the digital screen was blank and wouldn't switch on, reinstating the link on the PCB. It looks like there is no power...

I have found my multimeter, tried looking for it last night and couldn't find it anywhere... but anyway, any circuits in paticular? I have the dual programmer fitted, one for water and one for heating. The display looks fine, I can scroll through the heating off, once, twice, on and the boiler...

Hi Chris As far as I know, on this boiler the diverter valve simply opens/closes the hot water feed to the rads when the heating is on/off. It can be a bit annoying in the summer because when you turn the hot tap on, it also sends the hot water around the rads, so when it is sticking, like now...

Hi everyone I hope this isn't too long winded, but I understand how it is best to have all the info before trying to help. My boiler is working fine for water, but not for heating. Heatslave 20/25 boiler, approximately 19 years old. When fitted, no room stat fitted. A few years ago I posted on...

Not at all helpful, but when my boiler was broken, I often used my shower to fill up my sink, was just as quick as turning the tap on.

While looking on the internet earlier to try and resolve the connectivity, to no avail, I did see there were three or four different brand names with the same stat as I have, probably bulk manufactured somewhere and branded dependant on order. When I popped the front off, the rear of the unit...

I am thinking the stat is connecting to my router on the wrong channel, it says it can only use 2.4ghz and not 5ghz, so I am going to have to see if I can work out what IP address it has been assigned and make sure it is on the right channel. There is also the issue of the stat saying the room...